Climb this while listening to German techno about robots
I was actually intimidated by this route the first few times I tried it, because my arms were already pre-smoked and I didn't quite have the gas to send the opening sequence. But then I went back to the route today and decoded it after a couple more tries. The lower overhanging section to the 2nd bolt is basically a sequential boulder problem with 2 specific moves that took some figuring out, but once you get the sequence nailed the route becomes pretty cake for an 11a. Figure out how to get to the ultra positive horny hold slightly above and left of the 2nd bolt and the rest of the route is 5.9/.10a to the top. The second clip is pretty scary because the hold isn't wonderful and you'll definitely deck out if you slip. The holds are currently pretty greasy due to the route's popularity and could use a brushing. At first I thought crimposaurus was a full sprayer for saying that this route makes a good warmup and cool down, but now that I have figured it out I totally see what he/she means. Will be a good warmup and gear rescue route for my next 12 project, Under Arrest -- the route next door.
This is such a good route if big somewhat thuggish moves are your forte. I enjoy it thoroughly as a warm up and a warm down considering how short it is. Nonetheless, one of the best routes on the wall due to the quality of the moves and the rock, the only reason it deserves a 5.11 is because of the steepness of the route and the beginning sequence can be a bit confusing. Great route overall, whether you project 5.11 or warm up on it.