Skip to Content

Rapscallion Blues **** - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.38/5 Average Rating : 4.38 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 11
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (29)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
trad
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.27/5
  Rock Quality 4.44/5
  Scenery 3.07/5
  Fun Factor 4.27/5

Description:

Climb a beautiful, right facing dihedral to a short, right-angling crack and a roof. Pull the roof directly on slopers and stems, then squeeze left up into a short v-slot to finish. A Doug Reed/Tom Howard masterpiece from June of 1984.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2005-10-19
Views: 1292
Route ID: 37302

29 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 29 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: csproul on 2013-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Really amazing route

I thought it a bit hard at 10c, but it is super fun. In you face off the ground with some finger locks, then it eases up while you stem to the lie-back. The lie-back is not so bad but sticking the jug without feet is a move and then you can rest under the roof. I didn't find a graceful way to pull the roof; lots of shoulder scumming, but then you get a no hands sit-down rest. The final bulge felt hard and insecure to me. Then a few easier moves to the top.

Added: 2013-06-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: warrenw on 2013-04-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2013-04-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2012-04-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Maybe my favorite hard 10 at the New

So so good. Protects really well. A tough start, although not too bad if you finesse it, leads to great corner climbing. First crux comes as the crack moves right. Get an awkward no-hands rest under the roof, then fire the true crux to pull onto another awkward ledge. Fire the last thoughtful crux out of the v-slot to get to easier terrain.

Added: 2012-04-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
Onsight Onsight ascent by: etabgunks on 2011-07-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars awesome

3 cruxes!

Added: 2011-07-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: rocket_man on 2001-06-03 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2011-06-03

... Read all 29 ascent notes