Skip to Content

South Buttress Right - 5.11a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Classic free climb with imposing undercling crux, airy, exposed traverse on hanging slab. Awesome canoe approach with portage, some moose-dodging may be necessary! One of the "50 Classic Climbs" in North America.

Descent Options:

Tricky rappel route, may need to backup anchors! Do what you can to avoid doing this in the dark!!!

Submitted by: jim23 on 2006-11-18
Views: 833
Route ID: 81231

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jim23 on 1997-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Moran SB right

scouted the approach the day before. ran into a moose on the approach around dawn, but we managed to bushwack around him. approach slabs straight-forward; route-finding pretty straight-forward; crux pretty much just a straight-forward grunt undercling- there is a placement for a smaller minicam- maybe I used blue alien? belayer should be on-task to let out some slack so leader does not pendulum into hideous jagged corner if he/she takes a fall when running out through the crux! get the route done in a timely fashion because the rappel route was VERY challenging to find even with plenty of daylight! retreat after the hanging slab traverse may be very difficult in bad weather!

Added: 2007-11-08