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robbovius
Dec 21, 2006, 4:23 PM
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Hey Notch, hope you've had good luck transiotioning from Decathlon...I'm making one last raid in bellingham today. not expecting much, but you never know.
I'm of work until 1/2/07 in another 8 minutes.
besides my Xmas day outlawry, I'm planning no some local climbing another couple days at least, for whjoevers interested.
Jason you out there? you back from TX? QQ for a day? Chad! you up?
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notch
Dec 21, 2006, 5:09 PM
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I just accepted a new job about 20 minutes ago, so the transition is going great now. I never thought I'd find out my wife was pregnant and have my company shut down in the same month! I don't start for another 2 weeks, and I am going to live it up until then, so anyone who wants to get out let me know. Merry Christmas indeed!
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core
Dec 21, 2006, 10:46 PM
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cracklover wrote: Report from the weekend: ... Unfortunately, it wasn't quite as sunny up at Pawtuckaway ... GO
The same could be said about AZ! First we had a day of sport climbing in cold rain on sharp volcanic pockets, which was quite fun despite the on-and-off mist and cold temps. After that we got a chance to explore some new areas in the Supes, preparing for a return visit to climb. Then Tuesday we bundled my folks up in the "winter gear" and took them slab climbing in the McDowell Mountains. Lack of sun and cool temps made for a short excursion, but it was sweet to see my parents climbing!
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jakedatc
Dec 22, 2006, 2:41 AM
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hehe it's funny how some people's "wicked cold" is another person's "still too warm" I admit it takes some work and a little suffering but the friction is worth it :) I was glad you guys came out though and was super psyched you and Al sent the problems you did at the end.
In other news.. for those who have met or heard about my friend Cory. He and his wife just had a baby girl. He has also been accepted to OCS in Ft Benning, GA then Ft Knox, KY for Armor Command with his first station after that being Hawaii haha If he starts staying "Brah" i might have to fly out to make fun of him personally.
Anyway.. depending on what is going on at home the 25th i might hit up LW before heading to my brothers for xmas dinner.
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core
Dec 22, 2006, 1:33 PM
Post #18430 of 22774
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Wow, busy month. Congrats!
Anybody want to hit Metro this evening?
not sure what this means ==> 
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robbovius
Dec 22, 2006, 2:56 PM
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Core, busy month for real...
every time I get an invite to a pay gym, and feel like it might be fun to go, I just walk upstairs and climb, and get over it ;-)
I dunno though, I have ALL next week off, and it might be fun to check metro out, as I've never been there.
I've been on a regular training regimen on my upstairs wallie lately, 2x a week. I also have my weight bench set up, and altyernate between lifting and doing lines on the wall. I'll warm up with light stuff on the bench, then work a short crimp problem, lift a bit more, work a longer problem that includes the K feature, another set of lifting (each time pyramiding up in weight) work a slightly longer problem, bench another set up in ight again, do some semi-pullups on the overhanging wall, and then start working full traverses from the baseboard to the dormer window. (there's a stem rest foothold magic-markered on the dormer)
specific lines on the wall are growing.
over the break I'm also going to build a second crimpwall on the other side of the dormer. Stem-moVz4lYfe!
(This post was edited by robbovius on Dec 22, 2006, 2:58 PM)
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core
Dec 22, 2006, 3:07 PM
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heck yeah, come to metro tonight Rob!
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robbovius
Dec 23, 2006, 7:19 PM
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Cory, sorry I missed that..although it wouldn't have worked out last night...spent it at Pam's - dinner and chillin'
next week though, if there's a crappy weather day not conducive to the out-of-doors, lety me know.
I'm gonna be doing my xmas day outlawry at less than 100% it runs out...nope not my forearm, that's feeling okay these days. Yesterday I had a moment of extr33m retardation, and shut my car door on the index finger of my right hand. it kinda fricken hurts. the nail is all purple and black underneath...mmmm.
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jakedatc
Dec 23, 2006, 11:20 PM
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Ergg... tomorrow looks sweet for the woods but unless someone wants to go i don't think i'll go out alone.
what is this.. metro... rock you speak of? 
Edit: a few pics from Blair.. photos by KK
Amnesia V5
http://www.flickr.com/...s/72157594435055310/
(This post was edited by jakedatc on Dec 24, 2006, 5:57 AM)
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wideguy
Dec 24, 2006, 1:55 PM
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robbovius wrote: besides my Xmas day outlawry, I'm planning no some local climbing another couple days at least, for whjoevers interested. Jason you out there? you back from TX? QQ for a day? Chad! you up?
I'm in. Friday is looking good for me. Mid-40's sunny, no wind. Tuesday is rains, that gives Wed and Thurs for drying.
Anyone else?
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robbovius
Dec 25, 2006, 9:35 PM
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Chad, I just looked at the weather, saw ptly cloudy and 39 for friday, and mostly clear and 35 for thursday. to my mind, Cwall would be better with more sun, but whatever. I'm all about a day of relatively easy top-roping
Well, the 3rd Annual Robbovius Xmas Day Outlaw Climb is complete, and I had fricken GREAT time out behind the, umm, initial xmas day outlaw raid site. got two onsite FAs, which I shall name Grey Dike 1 and Grey Dike 2, named for their proximity to a dike of grey granite embedded in the long wall of Milford Pink, and the order in which I climbed them.
grigri self-belay on a fixed line was the order of the morning, So upon arrival at the raid site, and after an inital survey, I hustled up the embankment to the top and hiked a short way to the trees which I'd selected for my anchors...
...folks, BTW, there ain't no leading on this wall, trust me. it's all drill holes, and loose blocks from fist to 21 inch monitor size. I wouldn't trust a single placement anywhere...
I built an two-tree anchor which I could easily re-orient for the two climbs I chose, tied a fig-of-8 on a bight into the rope to fix the lines and tossed rope down. I did not announce "ROPE", since these events are usually thinly attended. Like, by only ME. I rapped off the first climb, kicking out the most obvious loose chunks and blocks, and making some attempt to clean off a few holds on my way down.
if you open the attached pic, you'll just barely be able to see my rope (and it's shadow) angling down between two drill holes just left of the middle of the photo. Grey Dike 1 approximately follows the drill hole to the right of my rope. Grey Dike 2 approximately follows the rightward-angling seam of grey granite to the left, under an obvous roof. the pic was taken just prior to my FA of GD2.
I'd rate both climbs in the 5.6+ to 5.7 range, the latter based on a couple moments where technical climbing helps, and especially on GD2, because of the roof. about 2/3rds of the way up, both climbs become slightly overhanging, GD2 moreso than GD1
On GD1, you'll see a "mini-roof" below and to the right of the roof on GD2. that mini-roof, ,has bomber jugs atop it, but just below, there's a toaster-oven sized block with a tempting jug at the top...on the FA< I grabbed it, gave a tug, and it felt fine initially...when I weighted it, the entire blocks slid down from it's placement a quater inch and thankfully stopped moving. mmmmmmm, spicy! the spirit of adventure, indeed. yeahhh. I have hnamed that hold, "the Killer Block"...someday, that thing's comin' down.
Both climbs required testing of 50% of the handholds before commiting weight to them, and sometimes, even that wasn't enough... see above. all the jhadholds were dirty to some degree.
anyway, I completed the FA of GD1, rested on a big ledge at the top and basked in the, by then, birght bright sunshine and clear blue skies. Then I rapped off and repeated the route, taking in more baskage.
After repeating GD1, i redirected the anchor about 4 feet to the left (where irt is in the picture), and began my attempt of GD2. As I mentioneed, this line is slightly more verhanging, and a bit more technical - the feet from about 1/2 to 3/4 of the way up aren't as positive as GD1. the top of the roof is solid dirt, so I let discretion be the better part of valor, and worked moves around to the right.
after that I figured it'd be best if I savoredd my successes, pulled rope, tore down, and headed to the thin slab out behind the stop & shop, where I spent and enjoyable 45 minutes getting my ass kicked on some super thin traverse moves at the bottom of the slab. In the words of Moe Howard, "Hippopotamus too huge for this trick."
then, big toes screaming, squashed fingertip throbbing, and half my cuticles cracked and bleeding, I headed home for xmas breakfast.
good times, I'm tellin' ya. one of the best xmas guifts I get, every year, is the cubic miles of untouched rock around me, within minutes of my appt.
happy christmas evvyb0dy!
Oh. BTW, if you wanna know where these climbs are, well, print out the picture, drive to milford, and start looking. it's not hard to find. This operative disavows all knowledge of your actions. *wink*
(This post was edited by robbovius on Dec 26, 2006, 3:14 PM)
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jakedatc
Dec 26, 2006, 5:29 AM
Post #18437 of 22774
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I will probably head out to the woods friday before work.. temps look crisp and frictiony
I got a Cinch from my dad so i feel as though i have completed my sport4lyfstyle with an autolocking belay device.
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wideguy
Dec 26, 2006, 2:36 PM
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robbovius wrote: Chad, I just looked at the weather, saw ptly cloudy and 39 for friday, and mostly clear and 35 for thursday. to my mind, Cwall would be better with more sun, but whatever. I'm all about a day of relatively easy top-roping noaa wrote: Wednesday: Partly cloudy, with a high near 41. Northwest wind between 9 and 14 mph, with gusts as high as 24 mph. Wednesday Night: Mostly clear, with a low around 23. West wind between 6 and 10 mph. Thursday: Sunny, with a high near 40. West wind between 6 and 13 mph, with gusts as high as 26 mph. Thursday Night: Clear, with a low around 24. Friday: Mostly sunny, with a high near 38.
I could go either day. Let's say wait another day and see what shakes out.
Hey, Nurocks? you back home for the holidays or what?
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robbovius
Dec 26, 2006, 3:16 PM
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Chad, my thoughts as well, weatherwise. I have Jason's cel # I'll make a point of calling him today, though i think his is off hiking up north the next couple days.
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robbovius
Dec 26, 2006, 5:53 PM
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Bring the $20 just in case ;-)
I'm still just chilling out here, I need to get my ass in gear and get some shiat going.
likely coming over this evening for some attic action, if you're interested.
I'll post up whatever I hear from jay.
UPDATE:
check yer cel voicemail.
if you don't, jason is hiking thru saturday so it looks like it's me and you, unless anybody else wants to tag along.
lemme know man
(This post was edited by robbovius on Dec 27, 2006, 3:21 AM)
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wideguy
Dec 28, 2006, 2:31 PM
Post #18442 of 22774
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Hey Rob, you awake?
Today, Thursday, looks to be ~ 10° warmer than tomorrow. Slightly hifgher wind from the west that would be blowing right over the rim of C-wall. You wanna head up today instead?
Lemmee know. I'll call you in a few and see if you're awake.
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robbovius
Dec 28, 2006, 3:55 PM
Post #18443 of 22774
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I'm awake now. gimme coffee.
Milford Quarry here we come ;-)
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wideguy
Dec 28, 2006, 11:29 PM
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Hey guys, I just got back from Milford Quarry with Rob. Well worth the trip. It's all stacked quarry block, but it's fun time and a really good spot to practice placing pro as you have plentiful horizontal and vertical cracks every 3-4' ranging in size from finger width to 6". Flaring, parallel, constricting... it's all there. Climbs top out at 30' or so and at the top lots of options for anchors, from gear to trees to 6 ton slung blocks.
Hike in from the parking area is 20 minutes or so mostly on a paved bike path. Most of the rock is clean and the friction is far superior to the other quarry we're all familiar with.
It may not hold up for the real die-hards but for someone looking for a quick lead in a nice local spot it will satisfy the fix. For someone of lesser ability, like me, it will be fine for doing laps and building back up to bigger, more tricky climbs.
We got a late start, and after my aborted first lead, we got two more short leads in, did some more exploring and had a thoroughly enjoyable afternoon. Even met a kid fom Ohio who said his friends would kill for rock like this. (Note to self...no moving to Ohio)
Great to get back out on rock.
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jakedatc
Dec 28, 2006, 11:40 PM
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Nice chad.. glad to see you get out to climb
kate and i might hit up RIRG either sat or sun to get on routes (and boulders i'm sure) gotta try out my new Cinch in a controlled environment ;) still might drop into the woods on the way to work tomorrow to throw a few burns on "the proj, brah"-nOOb we'll have to see how it looks out
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wideguy
Dec 28, 2006, 11:50 PM
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Jake, you and some other mutants should spend a day out in this place. There are a dozen 15-25' boulders out there, and hundred more in the 6-15' territory. Some with potential sit-starts, some really damn blank some with real obvious cracks and features. May not turn into much but there is a lot of rock out there. There must be some projects waiting for someone who does that non-rope thing. Might be worth a few hours of your time.
(This post was edited by wideguy on Dec 28, 2006, 11:51 PM)
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epoch
Moderator
Dec 29, 2006, 1:52 PM
Post #18447 of 22774
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notch wrote: A couple of questions regarding climbing in Maine. Yes, I realize this is the MCT, but I think there's enough Maine lurkers in here to get the job done. Are there any crags worth climbing in Southern Maine, say within an hour of Portland? What about bouldering? What I've heard about the Maine Rock Gym is generally unflattering, but I'm wondering if anyone's been there. What's your impression? I'm not looking for places to climb this time of year, just in general. Thanks
Although I'm not in Portland, There are some small things to be found in the area. MRG is nothing great. I wasn't impressed upon my initial walk-in and I havent been back to try the place out. Grahm started there, but that necessarily doesn't mean shit.
I can only assume that you'll be working in Portland based on your posts, and depending on where you'll be living will infleuence where the closest crag will be. (There's a gap of climbable stuff in the area.) Bradberry(sp?) Mountain State Park has some of the best boulders in Maine; that's 20 - 25 min away from down town. Until you get situated it will be hard to say where your best place to climb will be.
I climb in the Mid-Coast region mostly. Camden is the closest for me, and is about 1:20 from the heart of Portland. N. Conway is about the same from Portland as well, so you have options, just not "in town" climbing like Boston or the rest of Mass in general.
Good luck. I hope that I had something valuable to contribute.
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robbovius
Dec 29, 2006, 3:43 PM
Post #18448 of 22774
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Chad, yeah, vy good times yesterday. even though I did have my digicam with me, I didn't bother to take any pics, simply because, I dunno, I didn't feel like it. I was enjoying the climbing/hiking. It was good to finally get out there with somebody else.
FYI everybody, the leads we did were on the Talus Arette/Castle Ruins, and are about 5.3-5.4 at their hardest. there are some awkward moves, and not every hold is a gimme.
we identified a 2-pitch leadable traverse on the Talus Wall. that looks like fun. ;-)
someday i'll take some more pics of the boulders in the woods around that quarry. as I've mentioned, there's boatloads of climbable shiat.
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peterk
Dec 29, 2006, 8:05 PM
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So we went for a walk in the woods near our home and look what we found..........
There's a bunch more too.
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jakedatc
Dec 30, 2006, 3:29 AM
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Peter those look sweet.. and fairly clean too so get to sending ..
Chad.. in the past year i've learned that having a RI license plate gives you the right of way everywhere.. anytime..(or at least thats what people seem to think) so STFU nOOb and get the fook out of my way! ;) LOL!!!!
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