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jt512
Dec 24, 2007, 7:00 PM
Post #201 of 388
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JohnCook wrote: As a statistician you should know that in this case the mean is the same is the median, it does not equal it. Pedantic, but what else have us Brits got left in this new world order.
If you are going to be pedantic, at least be correct. The mean and the median are different measures of central tendency. In the special case of symmetric distributions, the mean and the median are equal.
Jay
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epoch
Moderator
Dec 24, 2007, 7:04 PM
Post #202 of 388
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philbox
Moderator
Dec 24, 2007, 11:28 PM
Post #203 of 388
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rgold wrote: -for example, no one paid the slightest attention to my post in this thread on that subject until k.l.k. resurrected it.
Untrue rgold, I definitely sat up and took a lot of notice, it is true however that your post was not commented on in this thread until later however your original words were well and truely taken notice of. Thanks for the heads up mate, very well written post too by the way. If only others like badsanta were able to do the same.
Speaking of badsanta, I am growing very impatient with his constant haranguing of threads that deserve better. I'm just about to go plonk on his ass. What say ye of the non censorship faith, do we have a case for removing this imbecile or what.
This thread is far too important for the likes of the common troll to derail. This thread has some of the most valuable information I have seen in quite a while. Thanks all for keeping things on track.I'm very keen to start some inspecting and testing of my own placements now.
On the matter of Aliens failing etc. I have quite a significant collection of Aliens and I and others have fallen on most if not all, this to me is sufficiebnt real world testing to validate their continued use. The case has not been made for Link Cams in funky placements therefore I will definitely be mindful to place my Link Cams with far more care than in the past given the information contained in this thread.
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billcoe_
Dec 25, 2007, 6:21 AM
Post #204 of 388
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Philbox: it seems to me that some of this should be in the lab thread. I'd like to see some further study on the effect of flaring placements on cams. Wider dissemination as well, especially given the comment Malcom Daly made earlier about another major Mfg's stuff failing in his tests.
I'm not sure banning badsanta is that good of an idea as he' new and can learn and grow, besides that: we would miss such classic gems as knieveltech just laid down right here below:
knieveltech wrote: badsanta wrote: Jay, you can't sell it or give it away for free because you are a failed pathetic excuse for a software developer. In reply to: With you on the board, I should be selling the Killfile, rather than giving it away for free. There's a couple of things you could have done better here, pay attention. 1. You went personal early, now if the argument escalates you've got nothing left in the hopper but "I fucked your mother/sister/dad/dog/grandma". Weaksauce. Next time save the nitro for the finish line. 2. You picked the wrong topic. Here you've opted to ignore the macro-topic for the site (climbing) and have decided to talk shit about Jay's professional status, or lack thereof. This is a problem because nobody actually believes you have any fucking clue what Jay's professional status might look like. For the record I am a decidedly unpathetic and relatively well-paid excuse for an application developer and I'll tell you right now that if Jay where to put in a job app I'd probably hire him, assuming he knows CSS and can get around in a unix command line. 3. You picked the wrong thread. You've just hijacked an accident report that includes product beta from the manufacturer. This is about as serious as a thread gets on here. Folks weren't following this thread breathlessly waiting for your next fucktard post. If you want to be a fucktard and get away with it, better to start a new thread. Edited to add: I fucked your mother.
Too funny! 
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ja1484
Dec 25, 2007, 6:30 AM
Post #205 of 388
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jt512 wrote: I'm not a software developer at all -- never have even claimed to be. In fact, quite the opposite, as I have said before, my original reason for writing the killfile script was to teach myself Javascript. Nonetheless, the scripts I've written for this website have been downloaded 634 times to date.
*635
Back on Topic: Couple of good pertinent points, oft overlooked and unintuitive, being brought into the spotlight in this thread. First being an aspect of cam design that may cause them to fail in what a lot of people might consider a "good enough" placement, second being the attitude of the leader towards falling on gear.
I've pretty much always been a proponent of the idea that, in trad, your climbing acumen is your first safety system, along with your judgment, that keeps you from getting in over your head. The gear is the "backup parachute", as John Long once put it.
Sport climbing is a different matter, but I'm inclined to agree with the previous poster who commented that a lot of people may not readily perceive it as such, especially when drifting from bolts into leads on gear.
This begs the question: Should the distinction be more readily made between trad leading and sport leading, a la the distinction between indoor plastic pulling and outdoor climbing (which, while we're on it, aren't differentiated explicitly enough themselves in a lot of cases)?
I doubt it would hurt anything or anyone. Perhaps an attitude adjustment within the climbing community on this(ese) issue(s) may not be such a bad idea.
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ja1484
Dec 25, 2007, 6:40 AM
Post #206 of 388
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billcoe_ wrote: Philbox: it seems to me that some of this should be in the lab thread. I'd like to see some further study on the effect of flaring placements on cams. Wider dissemination as well, especially given the comment Malcom Daly made earlier about another major Mfg's stuff failing in his tests. I'm not sure banning badsanta is that good of an idea as he' new and can learn and grow, besides that: we would miss such classic gems as knieveltech just laid down right here below: knieveltech wrote: badsanta wrote: Jay, you can't sell it or give it away for free because you are a failed pathetic excuse for a software developer. In reply to: With you on the board, I should be selling the Killfile, rather than giving it away for free. There's a couple of things you could have done better here, pay attention. 1. You went personal early, now if the argument escalates you've got nothing left in the hopper but "I fucked your mother/sister/dad/dog/grandma". Weaksauce. Next time save the nitro for the finish line. 2. You picked the wrong topic. Here you've opted to ignore the macro-topic for the site (climbing) and have decided to talk shit about Jay's professional status, or lack thereof. This is a problem because nobody actually believes you have any fucking clue what Jay's professional status might look like. For the record I am a decidedly unpathetic and relatively well-paid excuse for an application developer and I'll tell you right now that if Jay where to put in a job app I'd probably hire him, assuming he knows CSS and can get around in a unix command line. 3. You picked the wrong thread. You've just hijacked an accident report that includes product beta from the manufacturer. This is about as serious as a thread gets on here. Folks weren't following this thread breathlessly waiting for your next fucktard post. If you want to be a fucktard and get away with it, better to start a new thread. Edited to add: I fucked your mother. Too funny!
It's obvious to me, as a fellow nerd, that knievel may be fairly new to climbing, but this is certainly not his first forum.
Welcome, friend....
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curt
Dec 26, 2007, 2:44 AM
Post #207 of 388
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billcoe_ wrote: ...I'm not sure banning badsanta is that good of an idea as he' new and can learn and grow...
Plus, why hurry? Being a fucking retard is not, in and of itself, a violation of the TOS. That bar is actually somewhat higher--and I'm sure he'll manage to reach it soon enough.
Curt
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dingus
Dec 26, 2007, 4:02 PM
Post #208 of 388
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jt512 wrote: dingus wrote: I thought that was the median dumbass? DMT IQ is normally distributed, so the mean equals the median. Do NOT fuck with a statistician, Dingus. Jay
I forgot not for whom the bell tolls Jay. It was a ligit question brah. I thought what you described was 'median' and considering your expertise in the subject matter I just asked.
I got over arguing math with mathematicians way back on usenet, haha.
Cheers
DMT
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dreday3000
Dec 26, 2007, 4:19 PM
Post #209 of 388
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dreday3000 wrote: the_climber wrote: dreday3000 wrote: Bottom line? I ain't gonna buy linked cams no more. Quite a silly thing to say don't you think? As stated in Michael’s summary of the report; The nature of the placement and the mode of failure are completely intertwined. As placement adjustment/failure was occurring the orientation changed, this is what lead to the failure. And as it appears the only the lobes on one side endued up holding the force of the fall, but they ended up in a less than ideal orientation. Ie. They were not symmetrical. This could cause any cam to fail. It's quite apparent that there was NO issue with how this cam was manufactured or designed with regard to this failure. It was a less than ideal placement that unfortunately failed. That is an unfortunate aspect of trad climbing; we work with what we have. Many people used to use aliens in such placements rather than BD, WC, Metolius Cams... Why, because they seemed to handle the less ideal placements better. Bottom line is there were limitations within the placement that were not seen or considered. Not meaning to single you out there, it's just that these kinds of off the wall opinions seem to be everywhere these days on this site. Silly? Are you kidding me? Contrite maybe, but I'd say its a pretty darn logical thing to say. I'm trusting my wellbeing to my rack, you better belive I'm going to start second guessing what appears to be sub par equipment. And what exactly do you mean by 'failure'? There are two different issues here as far as I'm concnered 1 ) The cam not holding because it was a sub par placement (still debatable as far as I'm concerned) 2 ) The cam exploding. Normally the later doesn't follow the former. Right now the linked cams are the only cams I've heard of this type of thing happening. Furthermore, IMO these cams haven't been in the market them to be busting apart at the seams. Ironically, my girlfriend gave me a link cam for x mas. Based on the info on this thread, I've decided to return the cam. Just don't have the level of confidence and trust I require in my gear. My two cents.
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jt512
Dec 26, 2007, 6:45 PM
Post #210 of 388
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dingus wrote: jt512 wrote: dingus wrote: I thought that was the median dumbass? DMT IQ is normally distributed, so the mean equals the median. Do NOT fuck with a statistician, Dingus. Jay I forgot not for whom the bell tolls Jay. It was a ligit question brah. I thought what you described was 'median' and considering your expertise in the subject matter I just asked. I got over arguing math with mathematicians way back on usenet, haha. Cheers DMT
I thought you were messing with me. You are correct that it is the median that is defined as the value which half the population is less than. However, if the population has a symmetric distribution, (eg, a normal distribution), then the median and the mean are equal.
Jay
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badsanta
Dec 26, 2007, 11:23 PM
Post #211 of 388
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Pedantic and ostentatious are perfect descriptions of JT512. He is a person who is overly concerned with formalism and precision. Pedantry can also be an indication of certain developmental disorders. In particular those with high-functioning autism, often have behavior characterized by pedantic speech. Those with Asperger's tend to obsess over the minutiae of subjects, and are prone to giving long detailed expositions, and the related corrections, and may gravitate to careers in academia or science where such obsessive attention to detail is often rewarded.
Obsessive-compulsive personality disorder is also in part characterized by a form of pedantry that is overly concerned with the correct following of rules, procedures and practices. Sometimes the rules that OCPD sufferers obsessively follow are of their own devising, or are corruptions or re-interpretations of the letter of actual rules.
(This post was edited by badsanta on Dec 26, 2007, 11:26 PM)
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jt512
Dec 26, 2007, 11:32 PM
Post #212 of 388
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badsanta wrote: Pedantic and ostentatious are perfect descriptions of JT512. He is a person who is overly concerned with formalism and precision.
Like I always say: if you can't use the right word, at least use a big one. You never know whom you might fool into thinking you're intelligent.
badsanta wrote: Pedantry can also be an indication of certain developmental disorders. In particular those with high-functioning autism, often have behavior characterized by pedantic speech. Those with Asperger's tend to obsess over the minutiae of subjects, and are prone to giving long detailed expositions, and the related corrections, and may gravitate to careers in academia or science where such obsessive attention to detail is often rewarded. Obsessive-compulsive personality disorder is also in part characterized by a form of pedantry that is overly concerned with the correct following of rules, procedures and practices. Sometimes the rules that OCPD sufferers obsessively follow are of their own devising, or are corruptions or re-interpretations of the letter of actual rules.
By the way, plagiarism is illegal: click here.
Jay
(This post was edited by jt512 on Dec 26, 2007, 11:49 PM)
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badsanta
Dec 26, 2007, 11:34 PM
Post #213 of 388
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Curt, an insult coming from you, a poser, no talent ass clown/ass-hat, f*cktwit, is a compliment.
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badsanta
Dec 26, 2007, 11:37 PM
Post #214 of 388
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os·ten·ta·tious Pronunciation[os-ten-tey-shuhs, -tuhn-]
–adjective
1. characterized by or given to pretentious or conspicuous show in an attempt to impress others.
2. (of actions, manner, qualities exhibited, etc.) intended to attract notice.
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jt512
Dec 26, 2007, 11:55 PM
Post #216 of 388
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You aspire to be another John Gohde, the guy who single-handedly destroyed the sci.med.nutrition newsgroup?. You're off to a good start.
Jay
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jt512
Dec 27, 2007, 12:02 AM
Post #217 of 388
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badsanta wrote: os·ten·ta·tious Pronunciation[os-ten-tey-shuhs, -tuhn-] –adjective 1. characterized by or given to pretentious or conspicuous show in an attempt to impress others. 2. (of actions, manner, qualities exhibited, etc.) intended to attract notice.
When you don't actually understand a word, it's easy to be misled by definitions in abridged dictionaries that fail to adequately differentiate among words with seemingly similar meanings.
Jay
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primus
Dec 27, 2007, 12:14 AM
Post #218 of 388
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badsanta wrote: Pedantic and ostentatious are perfect descriptions of JT512. He is a person who is overly concerned with formalism and precision. Pedantry can also be an indication of certain developmental disorders. In particular those with high-functioning autism, often have behavior characterized by pedantic speech. Those with Asperger's tend to obsess over the minutiae of subjects, and are prone to giving long detailed expositions, and the related corrections, and may gravitate to careers in academia or science where such obsessive attention to detail is often rewarded. Obsessive-compulsive personality disorder is also in part characterized by a form of pedantry that is overly concerned with the correct following of rules, procedures and practices. Sometimes the rules that OCPD sufferers obsessively follow are of their own devising, or are corruptions or re-interpretations of the letter of actual rules.
Next time you look up a definition on the internet (Wikipedia in this case), quote your source instead of passing off said information in an attempt to make yourself look smart. And if you weren't trying to pass this info off as your own...well, it sure looks suspicious...
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murf
Dec 27, 2007, 2:32 AM
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badsanta is Jimmy? I figured it was some half witted teenager with a need for attention.
Hey did that n00b organization run you out of town yet? Your call for partners on Dec. 9 got no bites. Are you back here attempting to troll for partners under another pseudonym?
You keep keep coming back for more no matter how many times Jay, Dingus, or Curt make a fool of you. I guess you are a bottom just looking for a top, aren't you?
Murf
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curt
Dec 27, 2007, 2:43 AM
Post #221 of 388
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murf wrote: badsanta is Jimmy? I figured it was some half witted teenager with a need for attention. Hey did that n00b organization run you out of town yet? Your call for partners on Dec. 9 got no bites. Are you back here attempting to troll for partners under another pseudonym? You keep keep coming back for more no matter how many times Jay, Dingus, or Curt make a fool of you. I guess you are a bottom just looking for a top, aren't you? Murf
A bottom in need of an enema and some serious wiping.
Curt
(This post was edited by curt on Dec 27, 2007, 2:43 AM)
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dominic7
Dec 27, 2007, 3:17 AM
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jt512 wrote: JohnCook wrote: As a statistician you should know that in this case the mean is the same is the median, it does not equal it. Pedantic, but what else have us Brits got left in this new world order. If you are going to be pedantic, at least be correct. The mean and the median are different measures of central tendency. In the special case of symmetric distributions, the mean and the median are equal. Jay
Why don't we just say they're "congruent" and call it quits?
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billcoe_
Dec 27, 2007, 3:29 AM
Post #224 of 388
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badsanta wrote: Curt, an insult coming from you, a poser, no talent ass clown/ass-hat, f*cktwit, is a compliment.
Philbox, I was wrong about not banning this dude earlier. I though he may read Knievltechs brilliant masterpiece and reform..... sigh.....
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curt
Dec 27, 2007, 3:51 AM
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billcoe_ wrote: badsanta wrote: Curt, an insult coming from you, a poser, no talent ass clown/ass-hat, f*cktwit, is a compliment. Philbox, I was wrong about not banning this dude earlier. I though he may read Knievltechs brilliant masterpiece and reform..... sigh.....
Hey, I need him--I can't be my own straight man, you know.
Curt
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