8 short quickdraws

4 120cm 10cm spectra slings(tripled to make 4 more draws)

ATC w/locker
Reverso 3? (for added friction belaying and eventually for multipitch)

Gear sling?

Is that enough gear to get me started or do I need more quickdraws and/or sling draws? My toprope anchor would consist of 2 of the slings with nonlocking biners for the bolts and locking biners for the rope end. This seems adequate but some recommend 4 lockers for the anchor, but others still just recommend using quickdraws.

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks

8 draws is a good number to start with, but make sure to get some in varying lengths, as occasionally you'll find a bolt where you'll want one slightly longer (or shorter) to keep the carabiner from loading on the rock.

I doubt you'll need 4 double length slings, though it can't hurt to have them. There are better options for setting up toprope anchors.

6 biners

You won't need both.

You won't need any type of dedicated gear sling, as when climbing your draws, etc will probably be on your harness. A regular single length sling can be nice for organizing and hanging your draws in your gear closet though.

Should be plenty to get you started. For toprope anchors (at least on bolts), I find the best setup is an equalizing quad permanently tied from one of the extra long Mammut slings, with two steel locking carabiners for the power point. This setup is extremely easy to set up properly (tough for anyone to screw up), stupid strong, and the steel carabiners will keep your rope and hands from being covered in black gunk when top roping all day. Eventually you'll probably want a length of 10 or 11 mm static rope (75 feet maybe) for extending anchors over the edge of cliffs, but you can probably do without in many areas.

Thanks everyone for the info so far.

1. I already have the ATC. Should I still get the reverso 3 right now or should I just wait until I start multipitching? I figured it would be better to just get used to the reverso now so I'm comfortable feeding and catching on it

3. TR Anchor: Is a quad the best TR anchor option? When I've been out with partner and we've set up TR's for multiple people off of bolts, he's always just used a pair of slings with 4 lockers. He told me the lockers at the top aren't absolutely necessary though and the ones on the rope end were much more important. In addition, those longer slings with the lockers could be used just in case on the way up I needed additional longer quickdraws and just close the lockers after clipping into the rope. I prefer to not use a sliding x based on what I've read, and since opposing quickdraws for a TR anchor is generally accepted as safe, is having a dedicated quad anchor setup prebuilt necessary?

How about buying a short cordalette and making a quad for the TR anchors, rather than two of the static slings? Just as fast, self-equalizing, and more redundant.

So I've been reading up on the quad. Can I make one out of sewn sling or do the overhand knots compromise too much strength? What length of cordallete or sling do you recommend?

more redundant.

You won't need both.

If lowering off of the anchors is the custom where you'll be climbing, then you won't need both. If you plan on rappelling after cleaning, then you may want to go ahead and buy another device.

If you've only got one, and assuming your partner doesn't have their own, then it would be nice to have two. Otherwise, when you get to the anchors and clip yourself to them, your belayer would then have to take you off belay and tie the device onto the rope so you can hull it up and use it. Now that I think about it I guess you're gonna have to hull the rope up anyway, but I prefer to just have a device with me.

OK, based upon your list and the resulting advice here is what I suggest you DON'T NEED:

1. PAS or any other personal anchor system. If you must have something girth a standard length over the shoulder sling to your harness. Put a locker on that. PAS main utility is for mulitpitch trad and you're not doing that yet. There is no real ROI on a PAS for a sport climber.

2. Quad bullshit for a sport anchor. You are getting ridiculous advice on this score - forget about it and listen to your buddy.

3. Reverso - NOT NEEDED. This is a guide device that gets used by leaders who lack confidence in their 2nds ability to get up a given pitch.

4. Your 4 double length slings - ditch two of them in favor of two over the shoulder slings (I don't know the cm's, just 'try them on').

DMT

ps. Oh, and you don't need a gear sling either. Wait till you have a roack of cams to hang on that sling,

If you've only got one, and assuming your partner doesn't have their own, then it would be nice to have two. Otherwise, when you get to the anchors and clip yourself to them, your belayer would then have to take you off belay and tie the device onto the rope so you can hull it up and use it. Now that I think about it I guess you're gonna have to hull the rope up anyway, but I prefer to just have a device with me.

Most sport climbers don't live witthout and auto-block (gri-gri, sum, eddy, etc)
I used to think it was unecessary, stupid waste of money, until the day I spent 1h 30min belaying a friend working on (and falling on) every single move of a route he wanted to send. But you said "start up rack", so don't get one for now.
You will need one locking biner to go with whatever device you choose.

PS: They show it on a munter hitch but you can do it just fine ona tube style device.

Oh, bother.

Just get yourself a Gri Gri and avoid all this hassle.

go talk to the local climber and see what they have...in my area, 60 M rope and 8 draws are for really short climbs. we have a lot of climbs that are bolted on a 70 M

Hey, I got a badge for this in Scouts!

I think I would specify quite a bit further. Using the diagram you provided would parallel the brake and climber leads putting zero friction on a tube device. This is a recipe for disaster.

Perhaps there should be a directional keeping the brake end in a locked direction that we are missing here?

But for sport climbing?!? Hell no.

Why on earth not?

Like I say, i generally use a grigri, just for ease of boiking and suchlike, but when belaying somebody with an ATC who is projecting and tells me they need a rest, I always throw one in. Why sit there hanging on to the rope when it takes 5 seconds and is perfectly safe?

I too am looking to put together a sport "rack"

The draws i was looking at are the BD-Livewire (10 CM) and BD-Quickwire (12/18 cm).

I was thinking of getting 5 10cm, 3 12cm, and 2 18cm... Should cover all my bases as far as Draws and lengths are concerned, both had good reviews and money is no object (Go go gadget deployment money) However some advice from people who know what they are talking about is always welcome.

A Petzl Grigri is also on the list of things to buy when i return home...

I too am looking to put together a sport "rack"

The draws i was looking at are the BD-Livewire (10 CM) and BD-Quickwire (12/18 cm).

I was thinking of getting 5 10cm, 3 12cm, and 2 18cm... Should cover all my bases as far as Draws and lengths are concerned, both had good reviews and money is no object (Go go gadget deployment money) However some advice from people who know what they are talking about is always welcome.

A Petzl Grigri is also on the list of things to buy when i return home...

The 240cm (orange) Mammut 8mm slings are excellent for this purpose, though be aware that after falling on it a few times, the overhand knots will be very difficult or impossible to untie,.

Another way to tie-off a tube style belay: Clip the rope in to a biner on your leg loop. (If you are like me, you have a small locker there most of the time with a bit of cord on it for backing up rappels.) Once the rope is run through a locked biner below, you can tie it off above the biner with a normal mule hitch, without compromising the tube device's friction. I find that this is faster and less finicky than holding tension while I feed a bight through the belay biner.

What exactly has you so concerned? I've done this many times without a problem. (Note: I mistyped when I said tie it off above the "biner" --- I meant to type "tie it off above the belay device," which is what I do.)

Seems like maybe you are taking the position that something is bad just because it is novel, rather than thinking through "Would this actually work?"

It is tied exactly like a mule knot, with the biner being farther below the knot. The oppositional force comes from the leg-loop-biner, and it is more than adequate to keep the knot in place.

As for "proving" to you that it works---whatever. I have used it many times and it has never slipped or caused any sort of problem. If you don't care to try it that is fine by me.

You are wrong. You version of the mule and mine have exactly the same weakness --- if you pull on the slack end of the rope they come loose, absent a backup knot (which you should always, always tie). You think the extra loop changes this but it does knot; pulling on the loop running through the leg loop does not loosen the mule hitch. Only tugging on the slack end of the rope would do that. And a mule on a biner (or pulled through the belay biner and tied up on the line like a munter mule) still has a slack end that can untie a mule if you pull on it unless you've tied the backup hitch.

I respect your climbing experience, and I realize that part of the problem may be that my set up is hard to visualize if you haven't done it personally. But the extra loop changes nothing about the security of the mule.