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organic
May 23, 2005, 1:20 AM
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So I always here people on this site say "Oh well pullups have no correlation with climbing." So I am wondering how many people who can redpoint high 5.11's or greater, do you do pullup workouts? Can you do less than 10 pullups? Please only answer if you climb high 5.11's(V4+) or greater or see yourself doing so in the very near future.
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alpinerock
May 23, 2005, 1:24 AM
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i can knock off 20+ without warmingup, i don't work pullups exactly i do work lock-offs...
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jt512
May 23, 2005, 1:46 AM
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Your categories are misleading. You should break the first category into two:
1a. Never do pullup workouts, but can do more than 10 pullups
1b. Never do pullup workouts, and can't do 10.
I'd be a 1a (barely).
-Jay
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moss1956
May 23, 2005, 1:49 AM
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I have never tried more than 10. I didn't feel the need to.
I climb 5.11 by keeping my weight over my feet, or if I can't, using body tension to put my weight on my feet- so I don't need to be able to do a lot of pullups.
I climbed at Carderock last week. The rock is soooo polished that your hands are worthless.
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drrock
May 23, 2005, 1:52 AM
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akicebum
May 23, 2005, 2:33 AM
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I am a total pussy and even way out of shape I can grunt out 15-20 pull-ups although I often tell people that i probably couldn't drag my ass up for 5. I think much more important than your ability to do a ridiculous amount of pull-ups is the ability to do lock-offs and front levers. But opinions are like assholes and there is no point in argueing whose is best.
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jt512
May 23, 2005, 2:37 AM
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Well, so far, interestingly enough, if you look at the number of pullups people can do (or their belief in the importance of pullups, lockoffs, front levers, etc), and compare them with the difficulty of routes they have listed in their profiles, then you would have to conclude that the correlation between pullups, etc, and climbing level is negative (ie, the relation is inverse).
-Jay
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cgailey
May 23, 2005, 2:43 AM
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Can I be an 11c/d climber in my dreams?
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angry
May 23, 2005, 3:17 AM
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I can't remember the last time I did a pullup, I bet it's been a year. Or more.
I bet I can do 10 of them.
12a/b (on cracks, a little less for sport) and V6 here.
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andy_reagan
May 23, 2005, 12:48 PM
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I can't do more than about 7 or so pullups. I never saw the specificity of doing pullups, even lockoffs on a pullup bar (although that didn't stop me from doing them in the "dark ages" of my personal training). If I was going to do lockoffs on a pullup bar, I'd rather do a series of lockoffs on a system board. At least you're actually climbing that way.
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hyhuu
May 23, 2005, 1:10 PM
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The number of pulllups I can do has decreased over the years since I started climbing. Now aday I do pullup as part of general conditioning along with pushup, running, core strength etc. when I can't go climbing.
hyhuu
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drrock
May 23, 2005, 1:33 PM
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rockrat511
May 23, 2005, 1:51 PM
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I don't really see any correlation between being able to do massive amounts of pullups and being able to crank at an exceptional level. Two seasons ago I could redpoint if not onsight well into 5.11 with out much in the way of trouble, all while pulling 20+ pullups. Now, coming back after what basically amounts to a season off I can still crank 20+ pullups but 5.11 certainly seems out of reach at the moment. I think I could probably get back there if I just worked technique for a couple weeks though.
In closing pullups are a helpful but not integral part of hard climbing, on the other hand technique, don't leave the ground without it.
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organic
May 23, 2005, 2:41 PM
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In reply to: Would be nice to have a more scientific way of looking at this.
Good idea, anyone have any idea how we could do this?
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davidorchard
May 23, 2005, 3:04 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Would be nice to have a more scientific way of looking at this. Good idea, anyone have any idea how we could do this?
I will suggest we get all the data from everyone. Here is mine.
age: 31
weight: 175 lb
height: 5' 10"
gender: male
hardest climb, sport: 12a
hardest climb, trad: 10
years climbing: 9
ape index: +5 inch
max pull ups: 13
chalk style: ball
hair color: brown
eye color: brown
favorite shoe: Anasazi Velcro
#of kids: 2
favorite color: green
Add as many more catagories as you need. maybe it will turn out that the true key to climbing hard is hair color. :wink:
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chaps
May 23, 2005, 3:15 PM
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In reply to: I don't really see any correlation between being able to do massive amounts of pullups and being able to crank at an exceptional level.
Ditto. It seems that pullups sort of follow from climbing. When I started I couldn't do more than two; now that I've been climbing for a while I can do lots if I want to.
I suppose they'd be really useful if I ever found myself hanging from a couple of buckets after losing my feet and needing to lift my body 24 inches to get to the next foot hold without bending my legs. As many people have said, the best training for climbing is climbing. Other stuff helps, but not like climbing does.
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phlsphr
May 23, 2005, 3:22 PM
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I'm redpointing 11's (and one short 12) and can do 10 pullups on a good day, if we are talking about slow controlled pullups with good form--not bouncing etc. I don't do them often. I think I may be able to do more once I advance--but only because I think my weight is hindering me.
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jdouble
May 23, 2005, 3:43 PM
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I have never done any strength training (weights, pullups, campus....), all I do is climb and concentrate on technique. I have so much work to do on my movement STILL, that I don't see specific strength training coming for a little while. My big question is when I will have to work specifically on getting stronger......
Number of pull ups? Never tried, don't know, and pretty much don't care.
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fracture
May 23, 2005, 4:00 PM
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In reply to: Your categories are misleading. You should break the first category into two: 1a. Never do pullup workouts, but can do more than 10 pullups 1b. Never do pullup workouts, and can't do 10. I'd be a 1a (barely).
I'd be a 1b.
Last time I tried was a while back. At the time I was redpointing 12+ and could only do 5 pullups (failing on the 6th). I'm climbing harder now, but I doubt I can do any more pullups (though I'm not going to try).
For the OP: I know someone who has redpointed 12a who can barely do a single pullup.
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padge
May 23, 2005, 4:04 PM
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I pullup to the bar quite often. Maybe 10 to 15 times on a good road trip.
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caughtinside
May 23, 2005, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Your categories are misleading. You should break the first category into two: 1a. Never do pullup workouts, but can do more than 10 pullups 1b. Never do pullup workouts, and can't do 10. I'd be a 1a (barely). I'd be a 1b. Last time I tried was a while back. At the time I was redpointing 12+ and could only do 5 pullups (failing on the 6th). I'm climbing harder now, but I doubt I can do any more pullups (though I'm not going to try). For the OP: I know someone who has redpointed 12a who can barely do a single pullup.
What? This from the guy who was 'striking again' down in Tejas? :lol: J/K, those looked like some fun routes down there, nice going!
As for me, I don't do pullups often, last time I tried I think I did 10.
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boadman
May 23, 2005, 4:11 PM
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ooops, double post
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boadman
May 23, 2005, 4:18 PM
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I like Jay's post, so I'll say I'm a 1a. I can probably do around 25 pull-ups if I'm allowed to hang on the bar and shake out. If was just doing them straight without resting, it would be more like 15, I think. I do a little campus training once or twice a month. I can onsite 12- sport, and 11+ trad.
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fracture
May 23, 2005, 4:21 PM
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In reply to: What? This from the guy who was 'striking again' down in Tejas? :lol: J/K, those looked like some fun routes down there, nice going!
:shock:
:lol:
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alpnclmbr1
May 23, 2005, 4:35 PM
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To many pull ups on a bar are bad for your shoulders.
I can probably do an average of ten pull ups when i am fit. The main limiting factor is boredom.
There were a few years where we were training with bars, rock rings, etc. We made a set of wooden rock rings with smaller holds. Did weighted pulls and lock offs and dips on bars, various sixed pvc tubes on bars, rock ring, etc. We would add weight until you could only do 4 reps. Once you hit five, you upped the weight. I maxed at 4 reps with 65 and one rep with 85lbs, all on a 1/2 inch open hand edge
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