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dingus


Oct 4, 2008, 4:21 PM
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Re: [sungam] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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In the Ancient World we had Wreck Dot Climbing and verily lived the Balrog Lord Slime. Lord Slime was like Morgoth to curt's sauron, dude. And you couldn't edit or moderate the flames in those days!

I know, kids these days got it easy.

Anyway, there was this saying.... if ya think getting flamed by Lord Slime is tough, wait till Gravity gets a hold of ya!

Hehe.

Gravity.

But that was in a different age. The children of Men here are coddled and quite unused to a rude slap in the virtual chops - boo YAH!

DMT


sungam


Oct 4, 2008, 6:20 PM
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Re: [dingus] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
But that was in a different age. The children of Men here are coddled and quite unused to a rude slap in the virtual chops - boo YAH!
It's true. Not to mention that this site is a money maker now, and the last thing the owners want is to lose custom.
Scaring off the n00bs? BANZED!Tongue


looserock


Oct 4, 2008, 7:30 PM
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Re: [dingus] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
. . .But that was in a different age. The children of Men here are coddled and quite unused to a rude slap in the virtual chops - boo YAH!

I'm old enough to remember when message boards were a new thing. And I wasn't on a climbing board back then, but I seen the birth of the keyboard warrior. It has since become somewhat shallow to be a ten foot tall and bullet proof flamer on a message board. It's pretty juvenile. Having said all of that, I think the best flame is to catch someone saying something inaccurate, and above their knowledge, and bust them out like an attorney, by using clean facts, spruced up with some condescending adjectives, maybe a brief flame at the end of it all. This shouldn't be hard to do, out of 78K members, there's bound to be some pretenders.


curt


Oct 5, 2008, 3:43 AM
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Re: [dingus] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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Well, I can see my work here is done...Cool

Curt

<rides off into the sunset>


looserock


Oct 5, 2008, 7:24 AM
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Re: [curt] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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Me and my wife could cook you, and whoever else up a nice meal and have a grand time of it all; even if we weren't the best climbers. After all, as campers, we do have a few hundred dollars worth of cast iron cookware and all the groceries to go with it.


curt


Oct 6, 2008, 5:05 AM
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Sounds good to me. Are coquilles st. jacques out of the question?

Curt


looserock


Oct 6, 2008, 6:37 AM
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Re: [curt] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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No is isn't out of the question, our dutchovens will cook that. We're not westcoasters tho, you'll have to come to Sam's throne in Arkansas to be served.


evanwish


Oct 7, 2008, 4:26 PM
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Re: [derk424] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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well i would just go ahead and take the class, but a problem i see would be:
- if you barely climb 10's on toprope then there really aren't many climbs left below your limit for leads (my gym has around three .9s for leading, and alot more harder ones) and you want to be comfortable with the climbng when you're new to leading so you can focus on safety..while you hang on a few seconds longer to clip the rope (ex: no heal behind rope, no backcliping, relaxing, and clipping draws to bolts correctly)

but anyways, just do it whenever you feel comfortable. You're instructor will of course be better at determining your comfort level than any of us here on the internet...

Lead On Sherpa!


derk424


Oct 10, 2008, 3:47 AM
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Re: [evanwish] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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Hey everyone I finally just said F*** it and went for the lead course today. The experience was awesome i learned how to avoid all the critical mistakes(backclipping,foot faulting, z clipping etc) and got a good intro to outdoor leading and all the different forms of equipment and situations that can arise.(HUGE side note i do not plan on outdoor leading for a very long time, for several reasons. So hold off on the flaming haha.)
My instructor also went over some crazy horror stories of climbers who have fallen victim to the aforementioned mistakes.
Moral of the story, I learned the basics and am going to practice on top rope for a few weeks and then take my certification exam. wish me luck.

O and thanks for all the comments! =)


derk424


Oct 11, 2008, 7:15 PM
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Re: [derk424] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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Quick question yesterday i went into the climbing gym and while i was there i was able to work with some of the more experienced guys(ones leading 5.12s-5.13) they advised me that once u hit 5.10s and above its almost a given to invest in a pair of climbing shoes since rentals just wont be able to provide the same support?(gym uses la sportiva/evolv/5.10 rental line shoes and i was looking at evolv's defy for my first shoe) What are your thoughts? Thanks sorry if the question has been asked.


sungam


Oct 11, 2008, 7:23 PM
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Re: [derk424] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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It's probably the single most asked question, but I'll still answer it for you.
Yes, once you start doing harder things buy a nice pair of shoes (the best ones are the ones that fit your foot best. All rubber is sticky. Best fit does not necessarily mean most comfortable, but more gives you best performance.


derk424


Oct 11, 2008, 7:38 PM
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Re: [sungam] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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Thanks man i've already looked into down-sizing and the way that a good shoes supposed to arc your foot so that your able to climb more aggressive walls. Now all i have to do is get enough money to buy a pair.

O on a side note reason for choosing the defys is because evolve had a shoe demo at my gym, so i've got some experience with them and the optimus series. However im not going to go all out on my first shoe since will probably destroy them in learning how to better use my feet.(i'm practicing alot of glued hands and silent feet at the moment and its really helping)

o to add to my above on the shoe question reason why came up was yesterday practicing mock leading i slipped at least 3 times clipping and i was in a solid spot for the clip.(instructor was guiding me as to where best position my body for each clip. the hardest one i experienced was clipping from a one finger pocket while using a drop knee and flagging my other leg...terrible lol )

thanks again guys all comments help even the ones saying im a NOOBZORS lol sorry couldn't resist!


(This post was edited by derk424 on Oct 11, 2008, 7:44 PM)


bradley3297


Oct 12, 2008, 2:12 AM
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Re: [curt] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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after all your to the point sniper like comments to me i came upon a quote that sums you up to the tee. thought of you when i read it.

"Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great."


tradrenn


Oct 12, 2008, 5:15 AM
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Re: [bradley3297] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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bradley3297 wrote:
if leading 11s after one season of climbing is grounded then i guess so lol.

No you don't.

Last time you did a mixed route, you fell off it about 8 times and on your way down you yelled "falling" but ended grabbing a draw, which is a big no no. If you keep doing that you will dislocate your shoulder and once you do that your shoulder will never be the same.
Bye bye climbing.

Last time you did a 10d on gear you royally fucked it up in the first 12 feet and you bail off of it and I had to show you how it's done.

I'm not going to hide that if not the fact that you bailed off of it I wouldn't try to lead a 10d on gear.

Why do you call yourself a 5.11 climber is beyond me.

derk424 wrote:
bradley3297 wrote:
if leading 11s after one season of climbing is grounded then i guess so lol.

Im sorry im rather new to this but what exactly do you mean by "grounded"?

Grounded: as in that he only has 26 ascents this year, now have a look at my climbing log.

bradley3297 wrote:
your hilarious with all your short lame sport route ascents and boulder problems. get on some hard trad ya sissy.Wink

You obviously never seen his "climbing resume" now have you?

bradley3297 wrote:
all your bullshit respect talk means nothing to me.

That is one thing that I noticed about you. In general you have no respect for anybody.

bradley3297 wrote:
after all your to the point sniper like comments to me i came upon a quote that sums you up to the tee. thought of you when i read it.

"Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great."

Are you fucken done or what ?

Have a nice life Bradley.


bradley3297


Oct 12, 2008, 5:45 AM
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Re: [tradrenn] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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lol. youre one to talk. seeing as how i havent climbed with you since the start of the season how could you have any idea of how i am climbing. and that mixed route is my project . not that you have enough balls to get on anything you might fall on. youve been climbing 6 years and your a gunshy pussy who climbs 5.8 to 5.9. i could care less about youre ability but if you want to talk about mine. trust me after 4 more seasons of climbing ill be leaving youre ass in the dust. now excuse me i have some real climbers to go climb with. have fun on the lame ass choss routes you like so much.


bradley3297


Oct 12, 2008, 5:48 AM
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oh yeah . i dont post lame ass ascents. anything below 10a doesnt even go in the log book. the only climbs i put in there is pitches at the top of my ability so i can keep track of my upward progress.


sungam


Oct 12, 2008, 1:20 PM
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Re: [tradrenn] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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Huh, well I guess I'm down to one KF'd user then.


the_leech


Oct 13, 2008, 4:46 AM
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Re: [chossmonkey] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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chossmonkey wrote:
Perhaps its time to cull the n00bs again?

It's an ongoing process.

Stay vigilant.

And never give up the fight, my brother.


tradrenn


Oct 13, 2008, 4:53 AM
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Re: [sungam] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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sungam wrote:
Huh, well I guess I'm down to one KF'd user then.

WTF is KF'd user ?


curt


Oct 13, 2008, 5:08 AM
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Re: [bradley3297] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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bradley3297 wrote:
"Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great."

Of course if you actually can't, they're just blowing sunshine up your skirt and misleading you.

Curt


bradley3297


Oct 13, 2008, 5:30 AM
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Re: [curt] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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what makes you a fool is all your so called knowledge of people you dont know. thanks for telling me what i am capable of.Wink


sungam


Oct 13, 2008, 12:37 PM
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Re: [tradrenn] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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tradrenn wrote:
sungam wrote:
Huh, well I guess I'm down to one KF'd user then.

WTF is KF'd user ?
Killfile.


derk424


Oct 13, 2008, 2:08 PM
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Re: [curt] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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curt wrote:
bradley3297 wrote:
"Keep away from people who try to belittle your ambitions. small people always do that, but the really great make you feel that you, too, can become great."

Of course if you actually can't, they're just blowing sunshine up your skirt and misleading you.

Curt

Simply great. Also they could just be looking for a laugh when you try a course and eat it face first into the wall. Actually on friday saw some guy giving a new guy some lesson and this kid falls and unlike most smart individuals who put their feet up. this guy just lets his whole body drag against the wall his face hit at least 3 or 4 pieces...idiot.


jt512


Oct 13, 2008, 2:41 PM
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Re: [dingus] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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dingus wrote:
Big headed? I hadn't noticed.

DMT

It was more noticeable when he had hair.

Jay


jt512


Oct 13, 2008, 2:53 PM
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Re: [derk424] question on lead climbing [In reply to]
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derk424 wrote:
Hey everyone I finally just said F*** it and went for the lead course today. The experience was awesome i learned how to avoid all the critical mistakes(backclipping,foot faulting, z clipping etc) and got a good intro to outdoor leading and all the different forms of equipment and situations that can arise.(HUGE side note i do not plan on outdoor leading for a very long time, for several reasons. So hold off on the flaming haha.)
My instructor also went over some crazy horror stories of climbers who have fallen victim to the aforementioned mistakes.
Moral of the story, I learned the basics and am going to practice on top rope for a few weeks and then take my certification exam. wish me luck.

"Certification exam"? That's a bit grandiose for a gym lead test, don't you think? The last time I took something called a "certification exam" it required four years of college, a trip to the state capital, and two-and-a-half days of written tests.

Jay

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