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jaablink
Dec 16, 2008, 9:53 PM
Post #26 of 107
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I did not say you should never use a dynamic belay. I said, use when applicable. And pieces can pop using a dynamic belay. I’m in Redrocks January 9th if you get out there, or I will be out in SL Utah in March for a week then Park City. If you want to meet up I would be more than happy to show you.
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apeman_e
Dec 16, 2008, 10:03 PM
Post #27 of 107
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jaablink wrote: I did not say you should never use a dynamic belay. I said, use when applicable. And pieces can pop using a dynamic belay. I’m in Redrocks January 9th if you get out there, or I will be out in SL Utah in March for a week then Park City. If you want to meet up I would be more than happy to show you.
and they'd pop without one too
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j_ung
Dec 16, 2008, 10:12 PM
Post #28 of 107
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Gmburns2000 wrote: vegastradguy wrote: jaablink wrote: As I stated it is relative to the situation. If its not needed it should not be used. Also I have seen pieces zipper and pop because of a dynamic belay. gear blowing is a consequence of not slinging properly, poor placement, directional placement, rock quality, belayer stance, or some combination of the above. Is that true? I'm asking seriously here because I wonder why anyone would use a Screamer then if softening the fall makes no difference. Is it possible that a belayor can possibly re-enact what a Screamer would do if one wasn't used? Sorry if that seems n00bish, but I'm curious to know the difference.
I read VTG's post as talking only about pieces zippering from the bottom, not necessarily the top piece. A dynamic belay can help the top piece.
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vegastradguy
Dec 16, 2008, 10:15 PM
Post #29 of 107
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j_ung wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: vegastradguy wrote: jaablink wrote: As I stated it is relative to the situation. If its not needed it should not be used. Also I have seen pieces zipper and pop because of a dynamic belay. gear blowing is a consequence of not slinging properly, poor placement, directional placement, rock quality, belayer stance, or some combination of the above. Is that true? I'm asking seriously here because I wonder why anyone would use a Screamer then if softening the fall makes no difference. Is it possible that a belayor can possibly re-enact what a Screamer would do if one wasn't used? Sorry if that seems n00bish, but I'm curious to know the difference. I read VTG's post as talking only about pieces zippering from the bottom, not necessarily the top piece. A dynamic belay can help the top piece.
yup- should have specified that one.
also, you use a screamer because the rock quality and/or placement is bad in the first place- in which case, obviously a dynamic belay in addition to a screamer can help the situation (but obviously, a dynamic belay needs to be used with caution as well- depending on whats in the fall line)
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elcapinyoazz
Dec 16, 2008, 10:18 PM
Post #30 of 107
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jaablink wrote: Watch it there , you are talking a lot of shit for someone who has no profile....
Quite right. The ultimate measure of climbing experience and knowledge is clearly the existence of an extensive profile on rc.n00b. Maybe I should have spent the last 15 years spraying incorrect bs on the interwebs and working on my "profile" instead of actually going climbing.
jaablink wrote: And line running through placed gear up can zipper not well set pieces or where the only placements are marginal, mainly chocks.
Which has exactly nothing to do with the belay being dynamic and everything to do with the integrity of those placements and the location of the belayer in relation to the pieces.
Again, you're an idiot.
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socalclimber
Dec 16, 2008, 10:34 PM
Post #31 of 107
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pylonhead wrote: I predict this thread is going to be long and painful to read
You're right. It started with the initial post and went down hill from there.
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jaablink
Dec 16, 2008, 10:51 PM
Post #32 of 107
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Whatever; I travel the world and spend at least 4 months every year doing so. I am not afraid to explore. And More, I am not afraid to speak my mind, weather I am correct or in need of enlightenment. See I will learn something either way. You hide your face so you can talk shit like a cowered. Your fear most likely reflects your climbing . Running scared , overpowering through moves , lacking control with poor form. Its OK, I understand why you fear, and your right to be afraid and a cowered.
(This post was edited by jaablink on Dec 16, 2008, 10:56 PM)
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nivlac
Dec 16, 2008, 11:16 PM
Post #33 of 107
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jaablink wrote: Whatever; I travel the world and spend at least 4 months every year doing so. I am not afraid to explore. And More, I am not afraid to speak my mind, weather I am correct or in need of enlightenment. See I will learn something either way. You hide your face so you can talk shit like a cowered. Your fear most likely reflects your climbing . Running scared , overpowering through moves , lacking control with poor form. Its OK, I understand why you fear, and your right to be afraid and a cowered.
Definitely a troll. Otherwise, I hope you don't write code as poorly as you've written here.
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camhead
Dec 16, 2008, 11:24 PM
Post #34 of 107
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hey jaablink,
nice profile, but what 13a trad lines have you done?
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hafilax
Dec 16, 2008, 11:32 PM
Post #35 of 107
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Don't type angry. It's never pretty.
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shockabuku
Dec 16, 2008, 11:47 PM
Post #36 of 107
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jaablink wrote: Whatever; I travel the world and spend at least 4 months every year doing so. I am not afraid to explore. And More, I am not afraid to speak my mind, weather I am correct or in need of enlightenment. See I will learn something either way. You hide your face so you can talk shit like a cowered. Your fear most likely reflects your climbing . Running scared , overpowering through moves , lacking control with poor form. Its OK, I understand why you fear, and your right to be afraid and a cowered.
"Cowered" is the past tense of a verb, as in: to draw back and crouch in fear.
"Coward" is the word I assume you meant.
Arrogant dumbass is the phrase that rings in my mind in regards to this thread.
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jaablink
Dec 16, 2008, 11:51 PM
Post #37 of 107
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Local to me: There are 5 solid 13+ trad 8 sport (Gunks Grades) come here and I will show you. At the Gunks closest trad to 13 ,Scary Area in 4 tries. Tears for fears is only 12a ,first try with only some gear bata. Twilight Zone this spring. In the Red Welcome to ol Kentucky in pebble beach, I see you know the area. Greece was all sport but I played in the 11. To 13+ range and will do so again this year when I go to my vacation home for some r&r. There is a nice group coming with me this year.
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elcapinyoazz
Dec 16, 2008, 11:57 PM
Post #38 of 107
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jaablink wrote: I am not afraid to explore
Clearly not, given that you are currently exploring the untamed wilds of the State of WRONG, located in the Kingdom of FAIL.
jaablink wrote: And More, I am not afraid to speak my mind, weather I am correct or in need of enlightenment.
So, not an idiot, but a loudmouthed cocky idiot. I stand corrected.
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jaablink
Dec 17, 2008, 12:02 AM
Post #39 of 107
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Corrected: coward LOLHAHAHAHAHAHALOL
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camhead
Dec 17, 2008, 12:06 AM
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heh, you sent Welcome to Ol Kentuck? Nice work! I failed to get it this season, hope to in the spring.
I disagree with your original thoughts about dynamic belays causing zippering, however.
that is all.
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cracklover
Dec 17, 2008, 12:08 AM
Post #42 of 107
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jaablink, don't take offense, but you really do come across as a complete idiot. If you're not, learn to write a little better.
GO
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jaablink
Dec 17, 2008, 12:08 AM
Post #43 of 107
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Sorry, I am in a mood . And I am pretty sure Angry did Welcome to ol Kentucky too.
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cracklover
Dec 17, 2008, 12:16 AM
Post #44 of 107
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No problem.
By the way, Scary Area is a 5.10. So Gunks 10s are equivalent to 5.13 now? Huh?????
And you sent Twilight Zone at the Gunks? Holy crap, dude, that's pretty sweet. Or are you saying you *plan* to do it in the spring?
GO
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taydude
Dec 17, 2008, 12:21 AM
Post #45 of 107
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jaablink wrote: The last clipped point is one above midpoint , he goes to the top and drops.
that's not factor 2.
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jaablink
Dec 17, 2008, 12:42 AM
Post #46 of 107
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that’s OK… I still use a dynamic belay when it is called for. Just not all the time.. I saw a someone pop 3 pieces in a row on a dynamic belay last season. All were wire nuts on signal clips. I know pieces can zipper regardless. So its situational prudence...(done) I'm sure you will get it next season. I may be down there for a long weekend in the spring . There are loads of ice in the Dacks now, so we have been up and around Keene as often as we can.
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jaablink
Dec 17, 2008, 12:49 AM
Post #47 of 107
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Twilight is a spring project. And Scary Area is 12.c on pitch 2 and 11.a pitch 1
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curt
Dec 17, 2008, 12:50 AM
Post #48 of 107
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taydude wrote: jaablink wrote: The last clipped point is one above midpoint , he goes to the top and drops. that's not factor 2.
Nope, not even FF=1.
Curt
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jaablink
Dec 17, 2008, 12:53 AM
Post #49 of 107
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Your late. I get it…
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curt
Dec 17, 2008, 12:57 AM
Post #50 of 107
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jaablink wrote: Your late. I get it…
I'm late.
You're stupid.
I win.
Curt
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