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lodi5onu
Dec 17, 2008, 1:26 PM
Post #101 of 107
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Registered: Jun 26, 2006
Posts: 335
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wonderwoman wrote: Well, I don't know how you would practice factor 2 falls, especially in a gym setting. I am, however, a huge fan of soft catch. Hard catches hurt like hell! The dynamic stretch of a rope can in no way substitute for a nice soft catch.
+ 1
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USnavy
Dec 17, 2008, 1:31 PM
Post #102 of 107
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Registered: Nov 6, 2007
Posts: 2667
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Valarc wrote: USnavy wrote: Although most people don’t know it, the "bolts" on a gym wall aren’t usually attached to a big strong steel I-beam or something similar. They are usually only held by the wood that makes up the wall. There is generally a steel plate in the back of the wall that disperses the load of a fall along the wooden panel that makes up that section of the wall. What piece of shit gym are you climbing in? I've set routes at quite a few gyms, and been behind their walls at one point or another to fix spinners or the like, and I've never once seen a lead bolt installed in the way you claim. Methinks you're full of shit, or climbing at the most ghetto gym in the country.
I am not a gym rat, I climb outside. I haven’t stepped foot inside a gym in over four years. However when I did climb in gyms, the gyms I climbed in were configured in the manner listed in my previous post and when I asked the owners about the reliability of their design, they said it was standard practice. I would hope its no longer standard practice to do that.
None the less taking an intentional factor two fall in a gym or anywhere else for that matter is completely idiotic.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 17, 2008, 2:22 PM
Post #103 of 107
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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vegastradguy wrote: j_ung wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: vegastradguy wrote: jaablink wrote: As I stated it is relative to the situation. If its not needed it should not be used. Also I have seen pieces zipper and pop because of a dynamic belay. gear blowing is a consequence of not slinging properly, poor placement, directional placement, rock quality, belayer stance, or some combination of the above. Is that true? I'm asking seriously here because I wonder why anyone would use a Screamer then if softening the fall makes no difference. Is it possible that a belayor can possibly re-enact what a Screamer would do if one wasn't used? Sorry if that seems n00bish, but I'm curious to know the difference. I read VTG's post as talking only about pieces zippering from the bottom, not necessarily the top piece. A dynamic belay can help the top piece. yup- should have specified that one. also, you use a screamer because the rock quality and/or placement is bad in the first place- in which case, obviously a dynamic belay in addition to a screamer can help the situation (but obviously, a dynamic belay needs to be used with caution as well- depending on whats in the fall line)
Got it, thanks. Didn't catch that. Thanks for the clarification.
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Gmburns2000
Dec 17, 2008, 2:41 PM
Post #104 of 107
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Registered: Mar 6, 2007
Posts: 15266
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God Dammit!!!! Now I have popcorn stuck in my teeth, and it's only 9:40am!!! 
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jt512
Dec 17, 2008, 6:11 PM
Post #105 of 107
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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USnavy wrote: jt512 wrote: USnavy wrote: How the hell do you take ff2 falls in a gym? In reply to: Although most people don’t know it, the "bolts" on a gym wall aren’t usually attached to a big strong steel I-beam or something similar. They are usually only held by the wood that makes up the wall. Do you ever actually know what you are talking about? Jay Speaking of which, why don’t you continue to elaborate on how every dynamic rope ever made is the same.
I never said anything even remotely like that; in fact, I'm usually the one arguing the exact opposite.
Jay
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cracklover
Dec 18, 2008, 4:39 PM
Post #106 of 107
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
Posts: 10162
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USnavy wrote: Valarc wrote: USnavy wrote: Although most people don’t know it, the "bolts" on a gym wall aren’t usually attached to a big strong steel I-beam or something similar. They are usually only held by the wood that makes up the wall. There is generally a steel plate in the back of the wall that disperses the load of a fall along the wooden panel that makes up that section of the wall. What piece of shit gym are you climbing in? I've set routes at quite a few gyms, and been behind their walls at one point or another to fix spinners or the like, and I've never once seen a lead bolt installed in the way you claim. Methinks you're full of shit, or climbing at the most ghetto gym in the country. I am not a gym rat, I climb outside. I haven’t stepped foot inside a gym in over four years. However when I did climb in gyms, the gyms I climbed in were configured in the manner listed in my previous post and when I asked the owners about the reliability of their design, they said it was standard practice. I would hope its no longer standard practice to do that.
Really? Can you name one of these gyms? Because I'm betting that you misunderstood what you thought you were seeing. Either that, or they are not only the most ghetto gyms in the country, but they'll have insanely high upkeep. Repeated lead falls on wood panels would most definitely destroy the panels, and replacing them regularly would be very expensive.
GO
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