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Wunderkind
Feb 26, 2009, 6:24 PM
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For what it is worth: My judgement, as an out of towner, of SLC gym grades is that they grade boulder problems pretty stiff compared the gyms here on the east coast (almost feel comparable to what little bouldering I've done outside) but the routes at Momentum and Rockreation are soft. I've climbed harder by a number grade at both of those gyms than I have outside. My local gym seems to be just the opposite - soft bouldering and pretty stiff routes. So yes, indoor grades don't mean anything, but some (me included) like having them as goals over the winter. All that being said, I do think both of those gyms are great.
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cracklover
Feb 26, 2009, 6:37 PM
Post #77 of 106
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FTW! GO
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zeke_sf
Feb 26, 2009, 6:53 PM
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Heh.
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cracklover
Feb 26, 2009, 7:04 PM
Post #79 of 106
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I meant both by summoning Jake, and by turning the page. GO
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zeke_sf
Feb 26, 2009, 7:07 PM
Post #80 of 106
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cracklover wrote: I meant both by summoning Jake, and by turning the page. GO JFTPTFTW!!! Oh, I got it. Hence, "heh". The who recs/disses who on rc.knob thing would be a funny thread. Would anybody remain standing in the end?
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Tree_wrangler
Feb 26, 2009, 7:34 PM
Post #81 of 106
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I don't climb 5.12, and I've been loosely in the sport for over 15 years. I have no interest in just making moves on short 50' routes. I prefer remote crags, I prefer multi-pitch, and I prefer gear placements to bolts (although I love bolt anchors....) Does this answer some of your question yet? Grades are subjective. Good for you, you can make dynamic and powerful moves in highly controlled environments. I'll still bet that you'd shit your pants on some of the backcountry 5.6/5.7's that I've done. It's just less easy to define the skill-set I've had to build to chase my dream. And yes, I'd like to climb 5.12. But if I can't do it 300'+ up, on gear, in 80 mph wind gusts, with terrible rope drag, in a location where an ankle-break might spell real tragedy, after hiking 60 lbs. of gear in on the bushwhack, it's just a meaningless number. I can do 5.12 moves in a gym. I climb about 5.7-5.9 "way out there". And I'm guessing that you're a little younger than I, perhaps not with kiddos, career, house payments. If that's the case, you're in a good position to invest in the sport and push limits. Good luck.
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Tree_wrangler
Feb 26, 2009, 7:38 PM
Post #82 of 106
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In reply to: i think age has to have something to do with any assessment of this. i've only been climbing for a year and can grovel up 5.10s, but figure that's not the end of the world cos i started when i was 30. if i was 16, however, that might be rubbish. hell, i've seen 12 or 13 year olds cruise up harder stuff than i've ever tried and i figure that strength to weight ratio has to have something to do with that. meh. steve When I was 17, I'd swagger up to a rock and thrash my way up whatever. I'd push myself way out of my element, gambling on having no consequences. Now, I'm 33, and if I can't do it in a relaxed style, in control, it's just not right. I had to downgrade myself, and relearn some of the easier grades, to learn how to climb them in control, conciously, without constantly gambling on the unknown risks.
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krusher4
Feb 26, 2009, 7:43 PM
Post #83 of 106
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Wunderkind wrote: For what it is worth: My judgement, as an out of towner, of SLC gym grades is that they grade boulder problems pretty stiff compared the gyms here on the east coast (almost feel comparable to what little bouldering I've done outside) but the routes at Momentum and Rockreation are soft. I've climbed harder by a number grade at both of those gyms than I have outside. My local gym seems to be just the opposite - soft bouldering and pretty stiff routes. So yes, indoor grades don't mean anything, but some (me included) like having them as goals over the winter. All that being said, I do think both of those gyms are great. I guess one thing I like about The Spot in Boulder is they have a dot system for their grades...no one really knows how they translate into outside but they are consistant in the gym.
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Tree_wrangler
Feb 26, 2009, 7:46 PM
Post #84 of 106
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In reply to: So? Gym climbing is harder. Just ask Angry. It is harder. Harder to be there. Harder to take the stupid sounds of techno music while you climb, harder to *not* take a swing at someone, harder to learn anything. But it's not harder to leave those places. That's easy.
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dingus
Feb 26, 2009, 7:48 PM
Post #85 of 106
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Tree_wrangler wrote: In reply to: i think age has to have something to do with any assessment of this. i've only been climbing for a year and can grovel up 5.10s, but figure that's not the end of the world cos i started when i was 30. if i was 16, however, that might be rubbish. hell, i've seen 12 or 13 year olds cruise up harder stuff than i've ever tried and i figure that strength to weight ratio has to have something to do with that. meh. steve When I was 17, I'd swagger up to a rock and thrash my way up whatever. I'd push myself way out of my element, gambling on having no consequences. Now, I'm 33, and if I can't do it in a relaxed style, in control, it's just not right. I had to downgrade myself, and relearn some of the easier grades, to learn how to climb them in control, conciously, without constantly gambling on the unknown risks. I think you raise a great point TW. One of my main back country partners, a dude I have praised here online more than once, was an absolute master of control climbing in situations of grave danger. In the gym, screwing around on top rope, even bouldering? I could if not match him move for move come reasonably close. But the thing about Stu, the thing that placed him squarely in the elite of our sport, despite the fact he never climbed 5.13 in his life - he could climb under complete mental control right up to his limit, on lead, runnout. Not could.... DID. For decades. The coolest mind I ever roped up with; Stu. A few of his leads that I followed, deep in the back country, in the Winds, the Tetons, the Sierra, the Cascades... I was STUNNED by the seriousness coupled with the calm steady reserve. This dude NEVER wigged out, NEVER lost control, not EVER. A master of his domain. I always aspired for that sort of mental control. He'd climb stout and fearsome 5.11 pitches a day or two from the nearest car. Part of it was personality and temperment - he's just a calm and steady man, at the root. But too, he paid his freakin dues, like all the goodun's do. He earned his self-confidence. Cheers DMT
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yanqui
Feb 26, 2009, 9:23 PM
Post #86 of 106
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togden wrote: I am fortunate enough to live within 20 minutes of Little and Big Cottonwood Canyons in Utah and I was climbing there 2 or 3 times a week There are lots of good, hard, low-level 5.12s in Big and Little Cottonwood. Let us know when you've sent a few of them.
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kriso9tails
Feb 27, 2009, 1:14 AM
Post #87 of 106
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LamontagnedeGatineau wrote: kriso9tails wrote: jrathfon wrote: p.p.s. trad routes ARE harder Nah, they're just graded wrong. Nah, trad 5.12 existed before sports climbing existed. I'm aware, but modern climbers can hardly be blamed for the lack of foresight of people back in the sixties and seventies.
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jakedatc
Feb 27, 2009, 3:17 AM
Post #88 of 106
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zeke_sf wrote: cracklover wrote: I meant both by summoning Jake, and by turning the page. GO JFTPTFTW!!! Oh, I got it. Hence, "heh". The who recs/disses who on rc.knob thing would be a funny thread. Would anybody remain standing in the end? what the fuck do you want? ;) Took me 7 years since i started climbing.. 4-5 since i started leading to send .12 never sent a .12 in my gym since they sandbag like bastards (which is good cuz it makes you strong haha) PS many trad 10's are upgraded to .11's because at one point .10 was the "limit" so no one called it an .11 /retrobolts LamontagnedeGatineau's project, flashes it, then sprays about it on 8a.nu
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angry
Feb 27, 2009, 4:00 AM
Post #90 of 106
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The gym is sick. Anyone who hasn't sent Brothers in Arms can't rebut (that's a new rule I just made, it's totally sweet).
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zeke_sf
Feb 27, 2009, 5:02 AM
Post #91 of 106
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Whoo!!! The gym is sick FTW!!!
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jakedatc
Feb 27, 2009, 5:08 AM
Post #92 of 106
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LamontagnedeGatineau wrote: In reply to: /retrobolts LamontagnedeGatineau's project, flashes it, then sprays about it on 8a.nu First: I never posted anything on 8a.nu: I couldn't care less about the ego trip of the site. Second: Retro-bolting is like smearing a mustache on the Mona Lisa. It sucks. If you don't have the balls to climb it in the the same style as one how opened it, leave it alone: There are lots of other sport climbs and there are lots of other climbers who may respect it as is. i added the 8a part for giggles. i have no issues with reto bolts done by or with permission of the FA... especially at a sport area. (without permission isn't cool) I also climb at an area that does not have the best rock for taking gear. I'm also a fan of mixed routes.. some gear.. some bolts.. go with what the route takes. my first .12 (still need pics of me on it though.. photos taken were lost :( )
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cracklover
Feb 27, 2009, 4:30 PM
Post #93 of 106
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angry wrote: The gym is sick. Anyone who hasn't sent Brothers in Arms can't rebut (that's a new rule I just made, it's totally sweet). Okay, well since I fell all over BIA just seconding it!!! I won't try to rebut your statement that gym climbing is the shit. Instead, I'll take that as a given, and remind you that I believe we have established that I was once a stronger gym-weenie than you have ever been. So, what do I win? How about an oversized pink fluffy chalk bag? Seems about right. GO
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zeke_sf
Feb 28, 2009, 4:06 AM
Post #94 of 106
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cracklover wrote: angry wrote: The gym is sick. Anyone who hasn't sent Brothers in Arms can't rebut (that's a new rule I just made, it's totally sweet). Okay, well since I fell all over BIA just seconding it!!! I won't try to rebut your statement that gym climbing is the shit. Instead, I'll take that as a given, and remind you that I believe we have established that I was once a stronger gym-weenie than you have ever been. So, what do I win? How about an oversized pink fluffy chalk bag? Seems about right. GO Pink fluffy chalk bags FTW!!!
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desertwanderer81
Mar 2, 2009, 7:49 PM
Post #95 of 106
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you're teh newbz until you're climbing at least 13a's. Really though, why come here bragging about it? To me and many others climbing is a very personal thing.....the only reason why I would even share it with other people are potential partners so that you can get an idea about the ability of the other person.....
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summerprophet
Mar 2, 2009, 8:36 PM
Post #96 of 106
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lena_chita wrote: Not everyone wants to put the effort, mental or physical, into doing it. And some of us are just happy as pigs in shit, cruising up thousands of feet of 5.10, rather than beating ourselves up over a 30' 5.12. At the end of the season, it isn't the numbers you remember, but the friends, the views and the pure beauty of the mountains that fill your thoughts. EDIT: Missed that this was the sport climbers forum...... ignore the above statements. You folks are all about the numbers. I don't get you... you don't get me, lets just agree to disagree.
(This post was edited by summerprophet on Mar 2, 2009, 8:39 PM)
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patmay81
Mar 2, 2009, 9:52 PM
Post #97 of 106
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Valarc wrote: Spray spray spray spray. Some people climb hard right away, some people work their way up slowly. Some people never get there period. Personally, I don't care which route folks take, but the little pissants who spray about it get on my nerves. speaking of spray, I thought it was funny in the last issue of Climbing there was a quote from Hannonld (sp?) that was something to the effect of, "I like soloing because you can climb super easy and people are always impressed". The dude is soloing 1000'+ 5.11 and harder. I have a hard time dogging up some of the stuff he would solo, and other stuff he climbs I could only dream about doing.
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phillygoat
Mar 4, 2009, 5:14 PM
Post #98 of 106
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Registered: May 22, 2004
Posts: 428
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Tree_wrangler wrote: I don't climb 5.12, and I've been loosely in the sport for over 15 years. I have no interest in just making moves on short 50' routes. I prefer remote crags, I prefer multi-pitch, and I prefer gear placements to bolts (although I love bolt anchors....) Does this answer some of your question yet? Grades are subjective. Good for you, you can make dynamic and powerful moves in highly controlled environments. I'll still bet that you'd shit your pants on some of the backcountry 5.6/5.7's that I've done. It's just less easy to define the skill-set I've had to build to chase my dream. And yes, I'd like to climb 5.12. But if I can't do it 300'+ up, on gear, in 80 mph wind gusts, with terrible rope drag, in a location where an ankle-break might spell real tragedy, after hiking 60 lbs. of gear in on the bushwhack, it's just a meaningless number. I can do 5.12 moves in a gym. I climb about 5.7-5.9 "way out there". And I'm guessing that you're a little younger than I, perhaps not with kiddos, career, house payments. If that's the case, you're in a good position to invest in the sport and push limits. Good luck. This reminds me of a Chevy truck ad. ^
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jakedatc
Mar 4, 2009, 5:39 PM
Post #99 of 106
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sounds like his gym grades are soft but really... why bother spewing alpine trad ideals in the sport forum...
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ACJ
Mar 5, 2009, 3:26 PM
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Hmm, it took me about 2 hours to climb my first 12. Climbing 12's is hard, for anyone. I skip a lot of 12's because of lack of partners to do them with and getting more joy out of climbing a bunch of 5.9-5.10 instead of working the hard stuff. Then again, without a seasonal project climbing does get dull for me.
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