You're a fucking idiot.

Jay

Edit: GUd (and with my own photo!)

Can i use the long runner? And the turn of the rock is not sharp.
You know the route is not long.And if i set the top at right side, the route difficlut will down. Below the bolt#4, the difficluty of every move is average about 5.12a. If the route direction is right, it's easy more. And the right side is a hillside. So i set this traversing.

First route is not long. The rope is enough. When i leading climbed to the top, when do the sencond times figure eight to my harness, i can drop long enough rope to land, and the belayer can make this segment rope sense enough to control the swing when i got the first quickdraw. If i didn't do this, the swing happened in a flat plane. I dont think it's dangerous.

About the "The second to last bolt in your first set of pictures is also not well placed.
With the draw you have clipped in the pic, the bottom biner is resting a few inches inwards of a ledge.
This means if a climber falls the rope will run 90 degrees over the ledge, 90 degrees upwards then 180 degrees back downwards.
This will create for a harder catch, more drag, and it will annihilate your rope since it will be forcing the rope to run over the ledge at such a serious angle. "
I post move pics here.

And finally, what about the quarry rock zon?

Are you serious...? It’s completely beyond me as to how you could be so dumb as to think I was being serious in that part of the post... I have rap bolted numerous routes in climbing shoes as have others I know. I thought it was clear as day that I was kidding. Apparently not to some... Clearly, what shoes someone is wearing is irrelevant to their bolting experience. Clearly, I was being extremely sarcastic as I was in other parts of my post…

Judging by the response got, your sarcasm was hardly clear...but practice makes perfect.

Ok, I'm new to trad and I don't even know who that is in the picture, but I'm going to ask the first dumb noob question that came to mind, because I'm missing something:

Why is he bolting this route when the crack looks like it's so easy to protect?

He could also use a little practice back pedaling.

From what I recall, the column of rock that makes up the left side of the crack is hollow. A cam could easily dislodge it, and not many people know the value of a hex to carry them anymore. Hell, maybe even a hex would dislodge it, but by bolting the rock to the right, you would still be safe if it the column collapsed... as long as your belayer isn't crushed!

I don't think so.
First this route is 7 meters high not 10feet.
I know some boulder problem is even 15 meters high. But you know climbing is not popular in China and so many rookie don't have enough experience to jump from so high position especially for girls. It's not every Chinese can KongFu. If not bolted, they will not climb maybe.

I am not sure the quarry. I set more and more bolts in the wall. If some climber think it's too many bolts, I think you can use some of them. It's your choose.

Thanks. Welcome to China. An amazing place.

I see a bolt right next to a crack. is that right ?

or may be my eyes are going bad

I post a photo here.
Which one?
Thank you very much sir.

What is this dude anchored to and what is that crack next to his bolt ?
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ent;postatt_id=4017;

is that a crack or what ?

http://www.rockclimbing.com/...ent;postatt_id=4015;

USnavy tell me very clear how to do it.

Thanks Majid.

I see a bolt right next to a crack. is that right ?

or may be my eyes are going bad

hi, i am troubling in it.
This zone donot have the pure nature crag. But there are about 30 quarries. And these quarries were abandened at 10 years ago and all are grinite rock.

I try to making two new routes at last two week.
Here is some photoes. The difficult are marked at 5.12a and 5.10c.

Should i make new routes or stop it and closed the route? Help me plz.

Thanks all

I'm hoping that this is a exquisitely elaborate troll.

Jay

Oh man, We are not discussing the same route.
The second route is above 10meter high. It's not finished. It's made for a movie. I will clean it and rebuild it before open this route.
USnavy tell me very clear how to do it.

I will post photoes again after i rebuild this route.

Thanks Majid.

What type of rock are you bolting and how hard is it? Once again I would like to reinitiate that the bolts you are using are ONLY for hard rock and they can fail under bodyweight alone in soft rock.

USnavy, please don't reinitiate anymore bullshit like this. Why do you think these bolts would fail under bodyweight alone? And why do you think shear strength would fluctuate between soft or hard rock?

And why do you think shear strength would fluctuate between soft or hard rock?

It is impressive, isn't it?