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dugl33
Nov 12, 2009, 10:02 PM
Post #51 of 52
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Registered: Oct 6, 2009
Posts: 740
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Well, just to throw into the mix.
I think if you can't hold the rope locked off under a severe load, the answer is more friction in the belay and proper technique. If you like gloves go for it, but this isn't addressing the real issue.
I've caught what I consider to be some real whoppers, and they have always lifted me off the ground, up to 5 or 6 feet. Not sure how this would have gone had I been tied down though.
One other thought not really mentioned is the trend toward skinnier ropes. Catching someone on the old 11 mm is different than a slick new 9.2. Might be time to upgrade to a guide atc in hfm, or something similar if you are using skinny ropes. Skinnier ropes are both harder to grasp and generate less friction through the belay device.
Edit to add -- an easy way to add friction using the gear you probably already have is to add an identical locker alongside your existing belay locker.
Edit to add2 -- I would speculate that many of the rope burns reported result when a new belayer reacts in panic, and death clutches the lead side of the rope, and not the braking side.
(This post was edited by dugl33 on Nov 14, 2009, 4:53 PM)
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billcoe_
Nov 27, 2009, 6:29 PM
Post #52 of 52
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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dugl33 wrote: I think if you can't hold the rope locked off under a severe load, the answer is more friction in the belay and proper technique. If you like gloves go for it, but this isn't addressing the real issue. I've caught what I consider to be some real whoppers, and they have always lifted me off the ground, up to 5 or 6 feet. Not sure how this would have gone had I been tied down though. One other thought not really mentioned is the trend toward skinnier ropes. Catching someone on the old 11 mm is different than a slick new 9.2. Might be time to upgrade to a guide atc in hfm, or something similar if you are using skinny ropes. Skinnier ropes are both harder to grasp and generate less friction through the belay device.
Edit to add -- an easy way to add friction using the gear you probably already have is to add an identical locker alongside your existing belay locker. Edit to add2 -- I would speculate that many of the rope burns reported result when a new belayer reacts in panic, and death clutches the lead side of the rope, and not the braking side.
How I missed not posting this valuable info on my earlier rant is beyond me, nice catch and great advice!! What Rgold says about gloves is right, but if you are out at the rocks and don't have gloves simply adding a single locker that is the same size as the other one, so that there are 2 identical ones side by side, will increase the belay strength by approx 50%.
Like Dug says, I haven 2 (one for me one for my partner) DMM Bugettes - good fro ropes from 7.5 mm through to 9.5 mmwhich I clip to my 9.1 rope bag so that I always have them handy if that rope goes out. If my partner shows up with a device rated for a 9.1mm rope, these Bugettes weight about as much as tinfoil (26 grams) and are no trouble to haul up with me as an extra.
I've noticed that using a single locker on a 7.8mm rope to rap is a bit crazy with them, adding a second is almost mandatory for those long raps like in Red Rocks.
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