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Reviews by andrewj (23)

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Five-O Screwlock (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: andrewj, 2005-09-26


A nice locker, pretty big compared to my Quicksilver locker. It's nice for stuffing a bunch of webbing and cord into at anchor points, etc.


Huevos (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.71/5 Average Rating : 4.71/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Nuts and Stoppers

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: andrewj, 2005-09-14


Good cheap nuts.

I reccomend the full set (1-13) instead of the alpine set (4-13) because the #3 is actually pretty useful and it's on the same guage cable as the #4, meaning it's not body weight/direct aid only like the #2 and #1 are.


32oz Wide Mouth Bottle (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.34/5 Average Rating : 4.34/5

In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Water Bottles and Bags

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: andrewj, 2005-09-01


accidentally dropped of a ~60' sport route (Job 3:25, Sam's Throne) onto solid rock without any damage, didn't even spill a drop of water. All the knock-off lexan bottles that I own have all developed cracked and leaking lids within 6 months.


Pacific ISO Cold Forged Doval Carabiner (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.23/5 Average Rating : 4.23/5

In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Non-Locking Carabiners: Wire Biners

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: andrewj, 2005-09-01


At only 37g and about $6.95 its hard to beat these for a cheap lightweight biner. I use them everywhere I would use mine for racking nuts and hexes, for cams and tricams I'd be much more likely to rack with JC's because the Dovals have that damn tendency to rotate and then you can't tell which end the nose is on.


Classic Straight Gate (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: andrewj, 2005-09-01


In my opinion this is the best draw out there for the money. For about $11.50 a pop you get the best rope end biner in existence (the JC wiregate) a nylon dogbone, and a functional bolt/gear end biner.
The JC is definately the best part of this package. It clips like a dream, and is perfect for rope with it's 11mm rope radius. Its funky shape fits my hand perfectly when I'm trying to clip in, and the groove along the spine really helps on those desperate sweaty clips.
This draw uses a nylon dogbone instead of spectra/dyneema and it really works well. I found myself really liking the extra width of the nylon, it really helps keep the JC biner from rotating around without any special keepers (like Petzl or BD) and I'm all for eliminating extra parts...remember K.I.S.S.
The worst part of this draw, and the reason why it didn't get 5 stars (or biners in this case) is the classic straight gate biner that you get for the bolt/gear end. While this is a perfectly functional biner and similar to other companies offerings in this price range it leaves something to be desired. Replace it with a nice light wiregate for a super lightweight biner, or a keylock (spirit) for a great all around draw.

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