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Reviews by martinheynert (16)

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X-Cube (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80/5

In: Gear: Archive

Review 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2006-05-29


Just great! The triple-graduated midsole gives you both excellent edging and sensitive smearing. Great idea in construction and it really works as promised.

Manufacturing quality is critical, size and level of asymetric shape differ from pair to pair even in the same size. When they improve their quality, that would be a real great climbing shoe.

The last is a broader one.

The toe profile is more flat, don't select this model to small (to short). It will NOT stretch a lot, and it will definitely not become LONGER more than approx. 1/4 size U.K. In the toe box, there is not much room for cramped or crunched toes.

Sole construction features a good compromise between toe gripping power and flat standing when smearing.

This is a great, great shoe with big potential, aimed for the more sophisticated climber.

Can be used on crags, for bouldering and for gym.


Vasak Crampons W/ Wire Lever Binding Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50/5

In: Gear: Alpine & Ice Climbing: Crampons

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2005-12-29


Very good craftmanship in every aspect. For the purpose given by the manufacturer, they work absolutely fine.

I have mine with Spirlock binding. I use them both with my very rigid high mountain boots and my Garmont Dakota trecking boots.

Anti-Ball plates come with the crampons and work really good.

A pro over Grivel is the ability to adjust the length finer thanks to a bar with holes for half sizes.

Front point construction works also for not to steep mixed terrain.

Not designed for 90° or overhanging ice falls.


Scarpa Vision (Manufacturer link) Average Rating = 4.70/5 Average Rating : 4.70/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2005-12-07


What a shoe! Very narrow, snug fit. Downturned. You can get good pressure on your big toe, but - different to Five Tens Anasazi Velcro - this comes not with a strong slsingshot tension, which caused often pain and blue nails at me. Despite this lack of frontward draw, my foot is fixed excellent in very smooth leather. I have tried so many shoes but this is - after the LaSportive Mythos - the only one which is really comfortable. Miuras hard lining made my knuckles bleed after longer routes, Testarossas idiotic sewn tortured my big toes. Scarpas cut is much more modern and asymetric than FiveTen's Anasazis. If you thought that comfort and high performance cannot come together in a climbing shoe, try this one. Will stretch 1/2 size. Buy it narrow for high performance or 1/2 bigger for all day comfort. Good heel form, fits snug. Premium craftmanship.

I might have discovered a (very light) tendency to roll off from very small lasts, but I am not absolutely sure. It seems that the shoe pulls a little bit outward an down. May be it's a matter of training or use. On the other hand, thanks to the downturned last, you can grip some holds in a style similar to La Sportiva's Testarossa (which is much more specialised on overhanging terrain).

If you have the chance to get one of these excellent shoes in your hand, take it and try it.

If you order, for performance fit go 1/2 size (European) down from La Sportiva, for comfort fit it's nearly the same sizing.


Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco Rock Shoes (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.62/5 Average Rating : 4.62/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2005-11-16


I like this shoe for its universality and for its edging power. I also have a LaSportiva Testarossa, which is softer, but more specific.

The Anasazi, if you size 'em thight, is a stiff shoe. I bought mine the same size like my street shoes, use it with ultra-thin running-socks and have a close fit, but no "hot-spots". And I don't have the skunk smell otherwise notoric for this upper material.

I use 'em for edging, ramming it into cracks and even for smearing. Quality has been improved.

Stealth rubber is still the stickiest on the world, more than Vibram.


Testarossa (Manufacturer link) popular Average Rating = 4.90/5 Average Rating : 4.90/5

In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up

Review 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: martinheynert, 2005-11-16


With this shoe, you can (and should) modify your foot technique to a more "pulling" style. Gripping a grip with your foot is fantastic, edging power is very good, smearing on flat surfaces less. For a high level shoe like this, fitting is surprisingly good, does not hurt to much. Top quality. Good tool for the advanced user and definitely not for every route! The sole is curved, not flat. That gives you a completely different feeling. The vibram rubber may be a little bit harder than 5.10 stealth, but depending on your weight and the temparatures, that can be either an advance or an minus. In cold temperatures, 5.10 rubber is a little bit more sticky. In hot conditions or on rock in the sun, I feel the 5.10 rubber to be a little bit glitchy under heavy pressure.
Size it SMALL! If not, you'll encounter some torque because the toe box well be/become too roomy then.
One point to take care for: A stitch in the toe box can - depending of your anatomy - sit directly on the knuckles of your big toe. If so, you should look for another model. Otherwise it will make your toe bleeding after awhile.

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