Gear : Reviews
Reviews by roc-dude (55)
Multi-Loop Gear Sling (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.20/5
In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Slings
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-11
If you want a over the shoulder sling with your gear on one side the Metoluis sling is a must. It is well padded and I had the Multi-loop which is great to keep the gear seperated. I like the D attachment to help balance the gear and to add more space. Nothing bad to say about it, but I have since moved up to the Metoluis Big Wall sling for my trad climbing, it is the best I have tried.
32oz Wide Mouth Bottle (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.34/5
In: Gear: Training & Accessories: Water Bottles and Bags
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-11
I have had no problems with the lexan bottles. They are durable and work as they should. I like platupus soft bags better when hiking because they form to the shape of the space they are put in. The Lexan needs to be placed so it's not next to your back while in the pack. I have bought cheap water bottles at discount stores and you know what? They work great too but they are only $1.50 or $2.00.
Thermarest
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-10
I love the thick ones for car camping. the ultalight are good for backpacking. I can't tell much difference in the regular and the ultralight when I am sleeping. You are just saving weight. I think the ridgecrest is a cheap option but a little more bulky to carry. They do beat the heell out for the cheaper foam mats.
Trillium Stove Base (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.33/5
In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Stoves: Fuel and Accessories
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-07
I have used this with my MRS whisperlight stove for several years. I sometime have a hard time get the stove level and keeping it stable. The Trillium base helps with this problem. It not to heavy and most of the time I am glade I brought it along.
William Screwgate Carabiner (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.57/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-07
Super biner for its size. If you need a larger biner I would chose this one. I use it on trad anchors, my daisy chain, and tie in points. The only problem I have had was with it's shape. I like round shaped shafts for belaying with a reverso, the Willaims has an oval shap which is not a smooth.
X-Comp Straight (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.50/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-07
Good biner, well made, seems strong. a little heavy for my liking. It is a solid biner for on the hanger end of draws and someone who does alot of sport climbing.
X-Comp Bent (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-07
I found these to be good biners the clip well and seem to take abuse and keep on ticking. On the down side they weigh a little more than I like. I feel they work best on draws.
Fuel Bottles (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.80/5
In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Stoves: Fuel and Accessories
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-07
I have been using them for around 20 years.. Never had a problem. Don't try to fly with one, they will take it away from you even if it is cleaned with no fuel..
Stopper Nuts (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.45/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Passive: Nuts and Stoppers
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
I like the rang of size as compared to other stoppers. I bought a set of ABC stoppers and the cables were a little different and were not as firm as the BD's I had. I would recommand them to anyone who does not have them.
Enchanted Rock: A Climber’s Guide (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
Not a bad book and was needed since Dome Driver has been out of print for awhile. I use it and Dome Driver together. I have the first addition which is not as good as the new bound professional produced copy. If your going to Erock it is the new bible.
Rock Climbing Washington (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
I have only used it several times but I had the information I needed and it was well put together.
Hueco Tanks Climbing and Bouldering Guide, 2nd (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
For rope climbing this is it for Hueco. The book does a good job of routes and descriptions. Sometimes the decent and not well review. To bad we only can use the North Moutain section.
Classic Boulder Climbs (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.50/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
I bought it because it was the cheapest book I could get for the front-range. I found the topos and pictures for the routes lacking in some cases. I have used it and had no problems. Not as well put together as most falcon books, then again it is have the price..
Training for Climbing (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.50/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
If you are trying to get stronger this book has the latest information and research. It is well layed out with many different training programs. I have read several traning books and this is the best by far. I have used the techniques and seen inprovements, just don't over train, your body need time to recover...
Double D Gear Sling Attachment (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Slings
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
If you have the Metoluis sling and like it then this is a must. I found it helped balance the Rack plus added more room to spread out the gear. I have since moved up to the Big Wall sling for my trad climbing, it is the best I have tried.
Alpine Bod (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.87/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Harnesses: Adjustable
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
I think it is safe and durable and not too bad for alpine or mountaineering, but I hated it. There are better and cheaper harness if you were a rock or Ice climber. If you are glaciers traveler it would fulfill your needs.
Freedom of the Hills (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Media: Instructional Books
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
I bought the book, read it, bought trad gear and my first climb outside was leading trad with the info I got from the book with no instruction. Thank God I did not kill myself. Please get instruction before lead trad climbing. The point being, It is a great book for the standarders of climbing.
ATC Belay/Rappel Device (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.31/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-06
The standard. Cheap, light, well made. The rope run through it well for leading and repping. If you are intrested in top roping or sport climbing it works great
Mini Traxion Pulley
Average Rating : 3.62/5
In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Pulleys
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-05
I have used it to haul, as a pully and to belay with on multi-pitch routes. I find it heavy for the Trad climbing and I seldom carry it with me. One problem is that it is hard to give slack when weighted.. I have not used it on Big wall or for Tyrolean traverse, it may excel in those areas..
Hueco (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.25/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-04
It is a great starter shoes becuse of it comfort and good wear. I found it did all types of climbing ok but none great. For someone learning to climb it is good becaues it is an all arounder. I like them for all day multi-pitch climbing because of they comfort. Buy the time they wear out a person can pick a shoe that fit their climbing needs. I rank this shoe high in comfort and wear, average in proformance and bad in smell. The lining can start to stink and when it does it is the worse I have smelled.
3-Season Meteor Light 2 Person Tent (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.25/5
In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Tents: 3 Season Tents
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-05-04
I have had mine since 1987. Can you say durable? Lots of space and the weight is fine for a two person backpacking tent. Good Ventilation. It does tend to flap in the wind and the wall will push in on you in a strong wind. I had to replace the Fly in 1999 because in 1988 I got soot on it from ships smoke stack while sleeping on deck in the Greek Islands. The Floor is now starting to lose its waterproofing. It has been a great tent. If I were looking for a backpacking tent to day, I would look for a small size and lighter weight. With all that said, it has been a great tent. The best $160 I could have spent.
Glacier (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-04-26
Had this pack for about a year. It is simlar to the Terraplane but does not carrier the weight as well. The mesh over the front pockets is night to keep items which you will be getting out often. I sold the pack and went back to the Terraplane. The stay system made the weight rest to much on my shoulders. I would recommend spending a little more money and getting the Terraplane it just carries the weight better. Sometimes you can find this pack on sale for around $150 at that price it is a steal.
Vor Tec
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-04-26
If you want a bright headlamp this is the one. My Vor Tec came with two bulbs. One is super bright, I never use this one. The second is a regular bulb and it is super bright plus it does not eat battery. I don't use the vor tec very much because it is to heavy and most of the things I do when it is dark can be done with a LED headlamp. But when I need the bright light I go for the Vor Tec..
Zodiac Gear Sling (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.75/5
In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Slings
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-04-12
The Zodiac seem to fit and carry well but one problem I have had and everyone else I know has had is; the gear slides back and forth on the sling. It will either be slid to the front and in your way or slid to the back when you really need some pro in fast. I have seem people block off the very front and the very back of the sling loops with webbing to keep the gear in the center. If you can fix this problem it a great sling. I fixed the problem by buying a Metolius Big Wall Sling. You can not go wrong with it.
WhisperLite Stove (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.10/5
In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Stoves: Backpacking Stoves
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-12
I have to give high marks for this stove been using it since 1986. Still works great. It will bring a pan of water to boil in no time. The only thing I dislike is the foil wind screens. I wish there was a better system. I have only had two problems 18 years. Once I got a clog in the jet, (I have the pre-shaker model) I had to take a saftypin and hollow out the jet. Needless to say with the large jet it really cooks fast. One other time I blew an O ring in the boulder field on longs peak. A nice camper near by gave on to me. With a record like that I say it is Great.
Aurora
Average Rating : 3.90/5
In: Gear: Hiking and Camping: Lighting: Headlamps: LED Lamps
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-06
I love the different light setting. The pivot light so you can adjust it is super. Not as comfortable as the Ion but not bad. The only problem I have had is I sat on it and broke the hinge where the light can be adjusted. think God for super glue. The batters do last pretty long. Good around the camp and ez trail hiking.
Ion (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.12/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-06
If you want a light weight and comfortable light this is the one. AND PRICED RIGHT. I had bought it for my girlfriend but have now have taken it over. It is sooo much more comfortable than my Aurora. THe only problem it the battery does not last as long as other lamps I have. The battery is a special one that cost about $6..
Bora 40
Average Rating : 4.80/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-06
This is a well made and quality pack. Things I did not like are the Kangaroo pocket. I think there are better designed pockets. You have to put light weight items in it or you can really fill the weight. pulling on you. The waist belt and shoulder straps are to bulky and padded. I think its fuction is a backpacking pack. For its volume there are better packs for climbing. I also have the Dana Design snow factor. It is better for climbing and I think it carries weight better. I sold my Bora and only use my dana when I need that size of pack. Don't get me wrong it is a great pack but I feel the dana is a better pack for me.
Ridge Rest 3/4
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-06
Great value. Light weight, warm, almost as soft as a an air filled tremarest. It only major problem is it is bulky.
Camalots (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.49/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-06
I will not go into all the great things about Camalots because I think others have covered it well. But I will share what I don't like. The Micros just don't set as good as my TCUs. Plus I like the U shape TCUs stems better. Same goes with the Camalots .5 & .75 the U shape design I feel is easier to set than the new single stem. The #5 is a walker. Everytime I set it even with super long slings it just takes off. I just bought 4.5 hoping it will be better. They are great products. I suggest .5-4 as the base of any rack. On the small and large end for the range they need a little work (IMO).
Ultralight TCU (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.29/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-05
I like the TCUs a lot. The Trigger action and the bouble stem fits my had great. It seem ez to get all the lobs of the cam on the rock. The smallest one when over camed can be hard to get out sometimes. I had bought BD micro-cams and use them for about a year now I have taken them off and went back to the TCUs. They will always have a place on my rack.
Splitter Gear 2cams
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Average Rating : 3.00/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Protection: Active
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-04
I bought all the 2 cams units. I used them for trad climbing. After setting them several times I did not feel comfortable using them and did not want to take a fall on them. I can not tell you why I felt that way. I did find that they did not have a very smooth camming action. They also seemed not very sturdy with the two wires set up and the trigger. I will stick to my TCU.
JC Wiregates
Average Rating : 4.40/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-04
The best clipping biner I have used. I use them on the rope end of draw and runners. They are not good on bolt end of draws they flip over pretty ez and just don't hang right. They are not the strongest wiregate but they are one of the lights and man they do clip smooth.
Attache Screw-Lock Carabiner
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Average Rating : 4.33/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Carabiners: Locking Carabiners
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-04
Great biner. The round shape works well with the rope. It is a must with the reverso.
PowerCord Cordelette - 6mm
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Add-On Climbing Gear: Webbing: Webolettes and cordalettes
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-03
I have the 5.5 mm low strech cord. It great very small and compact. Ties and unties ez. When weighted it get stiff when unweighted it is limp. It has been durable for me. I have had now problems and it has bet my expections. The best part it in not bulky.
Reverso 3 Belay/Rappel Device (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.38/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-03
It is the best all around belay device ( I thank). The auto-blocking is super and the best I have used in an All in one device. Raps well and leads well. It is a little heavy, and that is the only draw back I see. It is best used by the multipitch climbing beacuse of the auto-blocking ablities. Not a beginners device it can be alittle confusing to learn at first. If you only top rope or sport there are cheaper belay devices. But for me I never leave home without it.
Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco Rock Shoes (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.62/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-03
A super shoe. If i have a hard climb I put these on. I like them on all types of climbing but can not wear them all day. The only problem is that they don't fit my feet well. Most 5.10's don't. I sized them half a size larger than my street shoes and still I could not wear them for more that 1 hour. after the first resole they fit great. They really focus the power to your big toe and stick on any thing. Not a beginners shoe to painful and your need strong toes. They do fit narrow feet. They are also the lightest shoe I own. The only suggestion I have is the heel pull on loop is not as nice as you would get with La Sportiva. Great shoe forn the advance climber on short routes.
Katana Velcro Climbing Shoe (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.12/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Velcro
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-03
Not a bad shoe. Im love the velcro it gets the shoe nice and tight for a narrow footed person like me. In find it excels on edging and does well on sharp limestone and blocky sandstone. I like the last shape, it is a little less aggresive that the Muir's. My biggest problem is the toe box is a little wide. I find it hard to really use my toe unless I climb in it all the time. I rotate my shoes and only climb in each pair once every two weeks. When I first got them I climbed in the several months stright and the more I climbed in them the more I liked them. I do not like the on slab granite. Mine only streached a little. I think they make a super gym shoe. I also wore the toes out quick in them. I think they are a good shoe and know friends who say they are the best on the market.
D7
Average Rating : 4.29/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Approach Shoes
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-03
Super, Super, Super. I have only used them several times but they fit great. Climb as good as my cheap climbing shoes. hike like my light weight hikers, and are as comfortable as my running shoes. We will see if they hold up. But as of now, I think there the best out of all my approch shoes.
Trilogy (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 3.33/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-03
Nothing special about this harness. It is light weight and can be a good gym harness. Not comfortable on hanging belays. After one year the end of the belt frayed and it is super hard to get through the belt. I believe it is the same harness as the Arcteryx vapor with a little different padding materal. If you get it cheap it is a deal, but if it is over $40 dollars upgrade to a Petzl or something else.
Flash 10.5 Climbing Rope (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.75/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Climbing Ropes: Dynamic Single Ropes
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-02
Mammut flash is the best work horse rope (10+ mm) on the market. it has a great hand, wears super well, does not twist easy and makes a soft ride. The only falt I have ever seen is the Mammut logo they use to mark the middle of the rope will come off the first time you use it. They try to make a big deal that it is on there for good. Unless you are looking for one of those fast wearing skinny ropes you should be getting a Flash it is quality craftmanship at its best.
Jaws Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.32/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-02
If you need real catching, locking and holding power this is a good one. My 95 pound girlfriend has taken over this guy. She needed an agressive device to catch me ( 195 pound) on my big whipper.
I don't like to rappel on the Jaws side, it catches the rope and does not slide through as smooth as I like. It would be great for someone learning to rappel because it does not take much effort to slow down or stop. When I rappel using it, I flip it over and use the smooth side. It raps ez from that side. It also works well with skinny rope..
I don't like to rappel on the Jaws side, it catches the rope and does not slide through as smooth as I like. It would be great for someone learning to rappel because it does not take much effort to slow down or stop. When I rappel using it, I flip it over and use the smooth side. It raps ez from that side. It also works well with skinny rope..
El Cap
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Helmets
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-02
I love this helmet. Many will say it is old fashion, heavy and hot. These maybe ture but I have own 5 different helmets in the past year and this one is the one you want on your head when rocks are flying or your taking a 20 foot whipper. It is the sturdiest helmet I have own. It can be use in the mountains or at your local crag. It is well made, comfortable and not real heavy. It can be a little hot for Texas, but all helmets are hot here.. spend your money and get the best
High Star Climbing Helmet (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 4.00/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Helmets
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-03-02
The best valued helmet on the market. Adjustable, light weight for the amount of protection provided, comfortable, and sturdy headlamp holder. Great for all round use. I own 5 helmets all but this one retail for over $70 and for a good all round helmet this would be number 2 on my list. Bottom line if you are under a $50 budget it is a great helmet. I have seen them on sale for around $35 a super price for head protection.
Titan (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-02-29
The very best and top of the line harness. OK it is very expensive and a little bulky, but if you are going to do Trad climbing or aid climbing or hanging belays this is a super comfortable ride. The many gear loops and the thick and padded waist belt and leg loops make it fab for being on a route all day with lots of gear. The quality and craftmanship is unmatched. It is not for gym climbing or sport climbing. If you have the money go for it..
B-52 Belay Device (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.48/5
In: Gear: Essential Equipment: Belay Devices & Descenders
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-02-26
Not a bad product. Works well with regular belay, Rappells well. I do not like to use it as an autoblock not as smooth as other autoblocking devices. My girl friend now use it mainly for rappeling. She only weights about 95 pounds and a BD ATC does not allow her to move smoothly down the rope. It is pretty light weight for the three in one fuctions it has. It is not as good as the petzl reverso for what I like.
Merak (Manufacturer link)
Average Rating : 5.00/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-02-20
This is a super shoe. Very simlar feel as the La Sportiva Muir in stiffness and support. the main difference is in the toe box. It is designed for people who have a longer second toe, "like Me". THe toe points more to the middle of the shoe. It works great on edges and pockets, if there is a dime edge your can stand on it. Not as strong on smears and slabs. I like wearing the shoe on limestone, sandstone and gym. It is a quality shoe and fairly comfortable for its style. I think they may have stoped production of this shoe.
Mythos (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.61/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-02-19
Out of the eight different shoes I own these are the best. They are a great shoe with all aspects of climbing and to top it off they are confortable. These are super on slab and smear climbing and all day trad. The only weaknesses I have found are with out a pointy toe some pocket can be hard, They stretch a lot. I size then down two sized. And for some reason I tend to wear the soles out much faster than other shoes I own. I own two pair and soon will by another pair..
Miura Shoe (Manufacturer link)
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Average Rating : 4.79/5
In: Gear: Shoes: Climbing Shoes: Lace Up
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-02-19
I have had three pairs of these. Super shoes for what that were meant to be use for thinny edges and pockets. They are a stiffer shoe with a great toe. I don't like them on smear and slabby climbs that is what mythos are for. They are not very sensitive when your need to feel the holds under your feet. I had to size them to my true street shoe size. My second toe is longer than my big toe because of the way they are shaped I could not down size. I found that they do not stretch much because they are a linned shoe. I do not consider them an all around shoe. They are a very well made shoe with quality materials. For edging and pocket you want find a better shoe. I am a shoe junkie with 8 different pairs of shoe. These would be in the top three that I own.
5'' Open Quickdraw
Average Rating : 3.62/5
In: Gear: Archive
Review
Review by: roc-dude, 2004-02-19
These are good Draws, well made and will last a life time. Very nice for sport climbing. The main problem I had was the weight. If you trad climb and carry a lot of gear and weigh is an issue these are not for you. If you climb a lot and you want a quality smooth clipping qraw that will last a long time this is it.
