Mossatopia - 5.11c

Fun route to the cave. It's kind of powerful down low and then manage the pump. You can get a rest in the cave in a number of fashions. Some use a knee bar, I do a off-width style chicken wing. Getting out of the cave was tricky at first but after I figured out the sequence it was easy. Sent this one my second go. There is definitely tall person beta and short person beta.

Amazing sequence, nice and high. Will definitely send now that I know where the moves are.

Weird years for me on projecting. Around '07 I came back to the sport and projected the Reimers routes everyone does every weekend--convenient and fun hanging with the gang. I didn't really like the style of those routes that much, other than Unnatural Selection and Lipo. I also projected heavily at Mrock, motivated by it being close to home and my rock. It has alot of routes I never get tired of, all in one spot.

North Shore opened, I got on the bolting bandwagon and projecting became intense and efficient for those FA's. A few years later, the guidebook motivated me to climb routes all around town, but time constraints kept me from projecting routes I didn't manage to send. I lost my projecting chops, but loved researching and writing the book. Once the book came out (March 2012), new areas of NS opened up, but I was much more selective and slow developing new routes, and they were relatively easy. I lost motivation to send anything at my former limit, a year went by and I realize I'd not sent anything above 11b. Nothing wrong with that--we had alot of fun and hit NS alot that year. But I noticed I was more scared than usual on lead, hung alot and rarely took a lead fall. Enough of that, and leading becomes stale and climbing becomes about complaining.

Then I decided it would be fun to master alot of my NS routes, working on repeats and not being such a lead wuss. Since friends end up at Mossy Wall alot, I also decided I wanted to wire the shit out of Mossatopia, the only jug route there, and super fun. So that one route (Dave Phillips') inspired me to finally set a somewhat hard project again and do it. Hopefully I'll begin mastering alot of my routes and set aside the fears of climbing.

Beta spoiler: I set the right kneebar first, shallow in the cave and "sideways," with foot pointing left towards Katrina and knee pointing right towards Ghost. Then swap to a left knee bar, I think in the same spot, to work the hands high for the final crux.

I really enjoyed this climb. There is a tricky, committing crux and the pump is on you toward the top. I wasn't fortunate enough to find a Knee bar like others have posted, but I still got the RP.

It is certainly a climb I will continue to get on.

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