Ascent Notes for: U Slot - 5.7 popular Average Rating : 3.97/5

Very fun

for those who like friction. 5.7 in the guidebook

I wanted to get to the tree ledge quickly and I have worn out the Block Route so I went up U-Slot. I climbed under the arete rather than on top of it. Instead of using the standard route that goes right and up to the belay anchors, I went slightly left and used the notch in the overlap between the Block Route and the normal finish for U-Slot. I keep seeing this notch being called the U-Slot but I have studied every climbing guidebook I could get my hands on and none show this as being part of the route. All show the route going to the right, just below the double belay anchors, before climbing the overlap. The notch is to the left of the line. I use the notch because it is much more fun than the normal finish. It can be protected with cams and the actual climb on top of the overlap is easier than it looks.

I have climbed this route many times, always following the upper crack on the arete, as is described in "Selected Climbs in North Carolina." This method can be easily protected, with only a small section of runout slab.

However, I managed to get a copy of "Dixie Crystals: A Climber's Guide To Stone Mountain, North Carolina." This guide describes the route as following the left-facing crack below the arete. So, I decided to try it this way instead. I found the crack very easy to follow with better than average holds. In fact, I didn't bother placing any protection until reaching the top of the crack before making the transition to the top of the arete on the right. Once moving up onto the slab, follow unprotected rock to a low spot in the overlap. I set a single cam below the overlap before proceeding. There are ample holds above the overlap to make the transition easy. Then, just follow nicely featured rock to the double belay anchors. This is one of the easier routes at Stone.

I have climbed this route at least six times and enjoy the little move up and past the overhang every time. Not sustained.

I have climbed this route at least six times and enjoy the little move up and past the overhang every time. Not sustained.

none

Seconded this, first pitch ever at stone. did it in one with a little siml-climbing

I headed up on top of the big crack feature and placed gear in the handcrack as I went. This is a bit easier than the climbing to the left/down in the big crack itself and avoids the slightly polished crux of moving from the crack up onto the slab above. Still the same runout and a little more slabbin' but it was a good friction day.

Was a bit wet, but was much less sketch than entrance crack. the u slot move was sweet.