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Brianleepainter's Logbook (15 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Undead Cats Wall

Lessamir the Slashamatic 1431 Hellkitty Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2015-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good route on positive holds. Agree with Jesse's description.

Beta per Jesse.

Added: 2015-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Awesome Roof Wall

Freeloader Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2015-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic Route at NS(first 5.12c flash for me)

Great beta per Jesse. This route has a bouldery start that stays on you until reaching a jug which offers a chance to recover. The climbing eases off a bit to the anchors from here on out. I'd say this route is bouldery, not as sustained compared to Learning to Crawl and has a similar rating as Astro Zombie. The movements and holds are very memorable, I'd rate this climb highly.

Added: 2015-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Awesome Roof Wall

Dinner with Dracula Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2015-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good Movement!

This route starts on decent side pulls and crimps to what I felt was the crux move, which is going from a small right hand pocket then intermediate crimp and moving to a good gaston. I'd grade this one as a softer 5.12a.

Added: 2015-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Undead Cats Wall

I Was Here Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2015-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Crux felt like v5 move

Instead of doing the power move which is a dyno/dead point to the horizontal slot area I used a bad intermediate right hand crimp(which was a bit chossy) to bump into the decent slot. I felt that this route requires power and or strength and tension similar to other 5.12b's at Reimer's.

Added: 2015-04-19

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Insect Wall

Deflower Power Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2015-03-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent Variety

This route is well worth doing because the variety of climbing includes a bouldery crux at the start, followed by a very good rest, and a pumpy finish on decent holds to finish the climb.

I thought this route was a hard 5.12a/easier 5.12b

Added: 2015-03-22

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Sex Cave

Elephant Man Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2015-02-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Memorable route, First 5.13a

I love this route for its variety of movements and kneebar opportunities, especially the iconic no hands rest before the crux move! I'm 5'5" and start the route out by jumping from the ledge onto the starting jug hold, which is such a cool intro to the roof climb. This route really engages the whole body. Once you clip one of the chains be sure to continue upwards and top it out for the 5.13a Definitely a classic climb!

Added: 2015-02-23

Routes: North America: United States: Arkansas: Buffalo National River: Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Far East

Spine Tingler Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2014-09-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Love this Arete

So far this red sandstone arete is one of the most beautiful routes I've climbed. Do Spine Tingler Direct and don't use the dihederal to the right for a bouldery start 12.a

Added: 2015-02-14

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Dr. Seuss Wall

Grinch Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2014-12-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Boulder problem

I enjoyed working this short, stout route/problem. It was a good experience on footwork and overall technique to maintain tension on the rock. Trust that black streaked tuffa when you smear your right foot. Also, keep your right foot on when you hit the right hand sloper during the V5/6 boulder problem.

Added: 2015-01-19

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: North Shore: Mossy Wall

Astro Zombie Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2014-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Excellent Route

This was my first 5.12c and managed to send in 1 session. This route may feel a bit easier for shorter climbers like myself(5'5") if one can take advantage of a perched, scrunchy position to take significant weight off of their arms nearing the end of the crux sequence.

Added: 2015-01-19

Routes: North America: United States: Texas: South Central Texas: Reimers Ranch: Sex Canyon

Learning to Crawl Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2014-11-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Memorable route!

Sustained. This route taught me to think about resting patterns and paying attention to which hand needs to be rested before moving into crux sequence.

Added: 2015-01-18

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