KLYMERGURL's Logbook (43 ascents)

Had two sections where I had to reach really high (I'm only 5'2") but would be much easier for a taller person. Transition onto arete always gets me but I love it when I'm done. It's all there no matter how it feels at first. One of my favorite climbs ever.

Solid climb, sustained 5.9 moves, lots of four finger crimping. Very similar to Solito but goes straight up wall the makes arete instead of having to wrap around onto it. Took a second to figure out first move at base of arete but not bad. Liked it a lot. A great warm-up!

I loved this climb. Great mix and fun to figure out. Starts with bulgy maze, then short but fun chimney, then more bulginess with a small overhang and finally some face. I went left around the overhand but right is an option too. I was just too short. Want to do this again on lead!

Very low angle easy climbing. "Tricky" part at top with actual verticle and a little bulge. Easy walk off. Kind of want to try with no hads just for the hell of it. Will probably end up with rock rash but hey, that's the game. Good spot for taking pics too.

I did this route because we had our entire ropes course staff from Friendly Pines Camp out there and we had a few top ropes set up. There's a good ledge in the middle to rest on or enjoy the view or whatever. Walk off, pretty easy for a 5.7.

This route is a good way to get up to the top of the Headwall to set up topropes for some of the routes (Headwall Route, Rappel Gully, Sleazy Street, and Rain of Terror I believe) or a quick way to go to the Monk. This route is probably a 5.3 or so and has bolts but most climbers wont need them if they climb confidently on this type of rock at a higher level. It's probably not a good idea to bring a friend from Maine who has never climbed above a 5.7 except in a gym up this without protection though as I saw a couple of guys doing just after I soloed it.

Anchor bolts are hidden behind the big boulder at the top.

I was out at the Mine Area with some clients some time last year and saw this climb and fell in love. I wanted to do this huge arete so bad but it was a no-go with clients. Well, I finally got around to coming back to it (of course now there's a huge bulldozer in the middle of Lower Luner, taking away from my excitment slightly with a dose of the reality of the mine coming in).

So I let my partner lead it. He got some dust in his eyes due to the EXTREMELY high winds and had to climb the last section with his eyes closed. I followed and did the whole thing clean. I was so happy I could have let go of the rock and flew out in the wind at the end of my rope!

This climb is awesome! It has huge exposure while still being very well protected. You have to move all around the arete to do it as a 5.9 which makes it interesting for differently sized people. I did it completely differently than my 5' 11", 170 pound freaking strong climbing partner. This is one of my favorite climbs in the Mine Area. I got to forget all about thin, slabby stuff with first bolts at 25' and just enjoy a good little challenge.

I've lead a lot inside and on SUPER easy stuff outside so this was my first outdoor lead above a 5.4 and it was great. I love this climb. Super possitive holds but has some loose rock (small stuff). Nothing too technical, just a small "bulge" (you can hardly call it that) in the middle. It's partly in the shade for some of the day and there's a good solid tree to tie my belayer off to since she was new to lead belaying and was nervous. 9 bolts plus the anchor are nice glue-ins about8 feet apart. GREAT first lead and good first climb for the in shape newbie too!

I've climbed this route before on top rope so we'll call this a redpoint even though I didn't weight the rope.

Start up on the partially attached boulder. Really nice easy 5.8 but it's steep and you spend a lot of time looking for that perfect pocket rather than just taking what you find the first time so it ends up being really pumpy at the crux near the top. I LOVED this climb and want to make it my regular warm-up in the Pond Area.

Really well protected 3 pitch 5.10b in shade towards the end of the Headwall. We free soloed first pitch as it was barely 5th class. 2nd pitch is long with sustained 5.10 movements. One VERY hard spot for shorter people but my 6 foot tall partner had no problem with it.
3rd pitch very easy and short to get on top off headwall. Rappel off of 2nd pitch is long and just barely reaches the ground with a 60 meter rope so be cautious!
Really fun route, sustained, and in the shade but still a little chossy so wear a helmet when you're belaying!