barwatt's Logbook (31 ascents)

Third pitch is badass, however I still think the Matrix is the best route on Whitesides.

Probably the best route I've ever done. Every pitch is memorable except for the first one. Great gear until the very end, but the spicy finish makes the route even better.

Great route, very remote feeling compared to other valley climbs. Rock quality was good for the most part, but somewhat poor when compared to El Cap and other valley walls. Last 5-6 pitches are excellent and I recommend doing the route just to climb these pitches. If you can lead 5.10+, this route will be a lot more fun because there are not many pitches harder than that. My partner pulled off a microwave sized rock three pitches above the Sheraton Watkins bivi which rolled off his leg. He had to jumar the rest of the climb, but was ok. Two days should be plenty of time for most parties and fit parties could probably do it in a day without too much trouble.

I used the Exum Guide shoes on the route (which I bought before I came out to WY) thinking they were made for it. Well, they suprisingly worked great and I never had to put the rock shoes on. Car to car in 15 hours. Went down the wrong gully on descent. Stay to skiers right.

Excellent route. First pitch was polished so I thought it was a little harder than 5.8 Felt like I was climbing in the Bugaboos

Great variety. Spent the night below the big step, but not directly below in case of rock fall. Would hate to be caught in a storm on it and I have tremendous respect for anyone who climbs it car to car in a day.

Very memorable climb. Got lost on hike in, had lots of rockfall from party above, got caught in lighting/rain storm on retreat, and managed to get off route on final rappels. Wouldn't trade that experience for anything!

Best route I've done in the east. Bouldery cruxes, with a little bit of run out and great exposure. Had to work the two 5.12 pitches crux moves, but they are well protected. Could be done as a sport route if you don't mind big whippers. Enjoyable hard climbing with the best rock quality I've seen at Whitesides of the 6 routes I've done there.
*Note*
This route has good belay anchors!

Fun route, climbed in August and had about 5 pitches up knee deep snow and then about 6 very fun full rope length ice pitches. Like previous note, we got way off route on the descent and almost had to bivi. Fortunately we found a cairn just as it was getting dark. The Sandbag of the Rockies says an enjoyable outing, but prepare for a long day. We left the car at 7am and didn't get back until midnight (mainly due to our mistake on the descent). My biggest piece of advice for the descent is to stay on the main ridge that you descend until you are down on the first big talus field and then hike all the way back around and you will start to find cairns that lead you down below the last big cliff into the valley. It may look like the wrong way, but if you cut down one of the gullies too soon, you will end up on sketchy terrain like we did. I noted poor rock quality because I was leading on some ice a few pitches from the top and a bowling ball sized rock flew by me out of no where, missing me by about 15 feet. Still another memorable climb that I wouldn't trade for anything.

Crux pitch is best pitch I've done at Whitesides. Loose rock as usual. I took a big fall on last 5.7 pitch from a broken hand hold.