barwatt's Logbook (31 ascents)

Not sure why this gets three stars. I had to get my belayer to keep looking in the guide book to help me figure it out. The ascent line is straight in the book, but I was wandering to the right, then left, then right near the top. I thought I did the route incorrectly since it is sandwiched between two others, but after reading the description, I think I did climb it correctly. There were no anchors directly above the top out (assuming I topped out in the right spot). The actual route is ok, but there are many others that are better.

Stunning mountain that I just noticed on a road trip a decided I had to climb. Very dissappointed with the $10 fee I had to pay back in 2004 just to park.

Fun route, highly recommend simul-climbing because it goes fast and pitching it out will probably leave you spending the night on the rock. Be careful on the descent. It's not hard, but if you slip, it will be your last slip!

Great route (Tape your hands and beware of lightning storms) Rappeled with one 60 meter rope for descent and had no problems.

Super fun route, didn't have a topo, but the route seemed obvious with a few possible minor variations. A great way to tag this summit fast. Climbed in the afternoon so there were two parties rappelling the route but didn't really cause us any problems.

Start by climbing rock face to the right of Angel Glacier (500-600ft?). Then cross Angel Glacier and hope you don't get hit by falling rocks if sun is rising. Start the endless wandering up the left side of the prominant ridge that eventually leads to a sketchy traverse across wet rock (or a small waterfall as we encountered) to get to the base of the crux 5.7 climbing. Enjoy the next 5 pitches (according to the topo we had). We roped this section out in just two very enjoyable pitches. Continue up more endless but easy scrambling on loose, but protectable rock to the final snow/ice slopes. Approximately 4-6 pitches to exit on left side of rock band protecting summit according to route description we had. We actually exited to the right of the rock band, but had to dodge falling rock while we crossed underneath the summit rock band.
One of my most memorable climbs and I wouldn't trade all the suffering for anything. 17 hours from car to summit. I would not attempt this route in a day unless you are comfortable soloing or simul-climbing all of the easy terrain on this route because there is a lot of it. I was hit by 7 rocks that I counted on this route that my partner dislodged and dodged countless more falling from the skies above. Still a great route on a big mountain.

Did this climb in 4 pitches with my silent partner (not including pitch 1 of the Original Route). Start is a little tricky, but the first 20' of this route (5.8 climbing to a #1 cam placement) is the most dangerous in my opinion. Pitches 1 and 2 can easily be combined if you pay attention to rope drag. Pitch 3 is runout 5.6 but there is gear if you look for it. Combine pitches 4 (crux mantel) and 5 to gear anchor on left side of tree ledge. Take it to the summit from there and belay in the bushes about 30 feet from trail.

Unless you are a purist, end this route on Traditions for a much higher quality and more direct finish. Pitches 5 & 6 can be combined if you pay attention to rope drag, but this also means running out the start of pitch 5 (5.6) a little bit.

Pitch 1 is a rope stretcher and a little runout in sections, but all the hard moves have protection. Pitch 2 is sweeeeet, but too short. Belay is also confusing after pitch 2. I just stop at the ledge with a bolt where you traverse right for pitch three and throw in two cams. Pitch three and four are uneventful. Crux pitch 5 is way overbolted, but fun and quite a thinker to decipher the crux moves. The traverse after pitch 5 is a pain when combining it with pitch 6, but that is the only logical way to climb it in my opinion. I am going to try the direct finish off pitch 5 next time as recommended in an earlier post.

I just wanted to let people know that there is a hornets nest near the top of pitch 1 in the crack. I attempted it last October and got stung twice, once after I tried to climb past them quietly. Wait until November or winter to climb this.