cragmar's Logbook (5 ascents)

Wasn't this originally rated 5.9?? Great route: awkward, strenuous, varied. Even at 10C, a stout line. Question of the day: If somebody pointed a gun at your head and said you had to choose between soloing this route or the Prow (11A), which would you choose?

The obvious choice: The Prow.

Have TRed multiple times this highly aesthetic line. My sole lead attempt resulted in a fall on the 5.9 exit move less than 10 ft from the top because I was so pumped I couldn't hang on. Never mustered the courage to try again as the "cube" start is 25 feet of hell, whether you go right or left - just too dangerous no matter how strong you are. I suppose you could push back into the pool if you popped off (??) This is a top-5 route for the Forks and a must for any visiting thin crack afficianado.

I concur with prior post. TRed many times before mustering courage to fiddle with tiny gear on the lead. It felt much more exposed leading through summit roof than when on TR. Not for the faint of heart or folks lacking patience to fiddle with their nuts!

necky route with difficult to place protection through bottom bulge. The top section above the ledge has magical stemming. This was a more enjoyable TR than lead due to awkward/inadequate protection.

Thin and thinner. I had TRed this line countless times over the years before finally opting to lead it. All the needed placements are there, the problem is hanging out to make the placements and not filling up the shallow finger jams. I believe I made use of 2 small slider nuts on my successful lead.