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pplachta's Logbook (40 ascents)

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Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Pat And Jack Pinnacle: Pat & Jack Pinnacle

Nurdle Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2011-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Steep!

SuperTopo says steepest 5.8 in the Valley and that could be right. A few awkward spots, my wife hated it :)

Added: 2011-08-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Reed's Pinnacle: Reed's Pinnacle

Reed Pinnacle Regular Route Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2011-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great views

Steep but fun climbing the whole way.

The 5.8 "chimney" turned out to be a squeeze that's more like caving than climbing. I had to go completely parallel to make it through. I didn't find it too scary since I wasn't going anywhere :) but making progress was slow.

Added: 2011-08-15

Routes: North America: United States: California: Yosemite National Park: Yosemite Valley: Royal Arches: Royal Arches

Trial by Fire Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2011-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great climb!

My knees took a beating, I wish I wore long pants!

I used a # 4 cam only, pushing it ahead of me in the crack. It didn't feel insecure or unsafe, I wasn't going anywhere :)
The cam didn't fit in 2 sections (too small) which provided excitement.

There is a single pitch above leading to Super Slide. It was full value adventure, circuituous climbing with poor rock and thus poor protection. Not recommended.

Added: 2011-08-15

Routes: North America: Canada: Alberta: Jasper: Mt. Athabasca

Mt. Athabasca North Glacier Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2008-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Looong day

About a 10 hour day climbing through Silverhorn. Mostly just hiking on snow :)

Added: 2011-08-15

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

High Exposure popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2004-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great climb

Too bad the 1st two pitches are complete shit.

The next pitch is awesome... thought provoking move out of the cave to the face, face is pumpy indeed.

Added: 2010-06-05

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Maria Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2004-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First Gunks lead

I remember making an anchor on the 1st ledge out of micro-nuts.... good times.

Added: 2010-06-05

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Sixish popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2010-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars 5.4??

Finished in the dark with no headlamp (3nd Gunks climb, 3rd trad climb ever). It was an epic as we were stuck on the upper ledge wondering what to do... plus I had to take a dump SO bad.
We debated sleeping on top, but instead ended up traversing all the way left and rapping (with 1 rope) in the dark all the way down. FUN TIMES

Note sure about the 5.4... :)

Added: 2010-06-05

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: The Trapps

Frog's Head popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2006-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Awesome climb

Maybe one 5.7 move over the bulge, great climb.

Added: 2010-06-05

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps

Gelsa popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2006-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Can't remember...

... much of this route. Did it for a warm-up as a group of 3 once, I led all pitches.

Added: 2010-06-05

Routes: North America: United States: New York: Upstate: The Gunks: Near Trapps

Layback popular Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00/5

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: pplachta on 2004-06-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Lots of fun

My first lead in the Gunks, and likely my 2nd lead ever.
The off-width chimney was burley (later, I learned from a local to do the left face variation, it's probably about 5.8 or 5.9 but beats the chimney).
I must have paused 10 minutes before committing to the layback (my first ever), having no large gear. In fact, back in those days, I had 3 cams and a set of small nuts. It made leading much more exciting.

Added: 2010-06-05

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