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Another Dimension - 5.10d

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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Premier Sponsor:
JT Croston and Shawn Tasker
Rock (Trad)
G
8
Small to Large cams (up to 4 BD) double up on the bigger cams
800
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
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Description:

Start left of the large blocky left facing arête left of lusting after women. Follow the hiking trail from the “beach” toward the Gimli-Nislehiem col. Just before the trail descends steeply below the west face, scramble up a series of ledges to establish a belay. Pitch 1: Scramble up some obvious ledge features about 20 meters from the large left facing corner system. Climb up for 10 meters then traverse up and left for 30 meters following below a small roof and/or steeper ground to a left facing corner system to the belay at the base of the corner. The traverse has gear where needed but could be run out if placement are missed. 5.9, 40 m Pitch 2: Follow the corner system trending to a small roof, pulling over the roof to a small belay ledge at the base of a large flake chimney (alcove). You will know you’re on route when you see the wall to the left is blank with no holds. 5.10a, 30 m Pitch 3: Climb through and left of the large flake chimney on some moderately steep face climbing to and through a small roof, then right to a horn and above to the next left facing corner. 5.10c 35 m Pitch 4: Follow the corner system trending to a small roof, either laying back the flake to the end of the roof or pulling over the roof (crux) to a small belay ledge. 5.10d, 30 m Pitch 5: Climb out slightly right to an obvious left facing corner with large flakes (if possible to avoid rope drag keep gear in the corner). Continue through this corner weaving in and out of the large flakes following the easier ground to the hanging belay near to the top of the corner. 5.10b 30 m Pitch 6: Climbing slightly right and then left under a roof up into a corner to a series of ledges. Climb a little higher to a sloped ledge traversing right to an obvious belay ledge 10 meters left from the large left facing corner system. 5.10a 20 m Pitch 7: Traverse into the large corner system making for the large notch near the top (joins Pitch 8 of Lusting after Women at the notch). Move up and through the notch in the roof and right to a large flat belay. 5.8 50m Pitch 8: Scramble up easy ledge systems to a large ledge. 5th class 15-20m

Descent Options:

Walk off the backside

Submitted by: a4a52041 on 2011-08-10
Last Modified: 2012-04-23
Views: 505
Route ID: 109600

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