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Routes : North America : Canada : British Columbia : Kootenays : Valhalla Range : Mt. Gimli : West Face Direct AKA "Dark Side of the Moon"

West Face Direct AKA "Dark Side of the Moon" - 5.10c

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JT Croston and Shawn Tasker
Rock (Trad)
Double rack of BD cams from 0.3 to #3, full set of nuts, and a 60 m rope, one set of micro cams and #4 are optional but handy in some areas. You can rappel from the top of the third pitch if you have double 60 m ropes, tat, and something to lower off.
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Access: Continue along the main hiking trail past the "beach" and climbs on the southwest face toward the col into Mulvey Basin. After the trail descends steeply and then starts to climb again, look for the obvious shallow corner crack in dark rock. Pitch 1 (35 m, 5.10a): Starts at the base of a shallow corner crack on the west face. Follow crack to a bolted belay station in a shallow dish. Rap off is possible to ledge at the base of the climb. Pitch 2 (50 m, 5.10b/c): Continue up the crack past two pitons (crux #1) to a small ledge at 40 m below a mossy steep section in the crack. Transition left to a left facing flake, which is not visible from the corner. Continue up to a bolted belay at a ledge. Pitch 3 (50 m, 5.10b/c): Step right back into the corner crack. Continue past the flaring corner (crux #2) up steep terrain, stemming and moving toward a large alcove-chimney behind a left facing flake. Squeeze through and up, step right to a small ledge and bolted belay. Pitch 4 (50 m, 5.8): Step right into a left facing corner and follow it up to the top of the headwall. Continue up and slightly right through discontinuous cracks. As the angle lessens look right to an obvious belay ledge below a small roof. Pitch 5 (35 m, 5.7): Pull through the roof and move up through slabs with small vertical sections until the ground eases. Scramble through easy 5th class to the top.

Descent Options:

Walk off east ridge.

Submitted by: a4a52041 on 2012-07-29
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 908
Route ID: 112020

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