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Space Jam - 5.11d A1

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JT Croston and Shawn Tasker
Rock (Trad) Aid
double BD cams from 0.2 to 3 - one #4 and nuts
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Space Jam: Jt Croston and Shawn Tasker July 2014 5.11d/5.12a A1 or 5.12? This is a sustained, slightly overhanging climb and you will need a wide variety of climbing styles along with a healthy dose of stamina. Look forward to open hand layaways and some jamming that would make Mr. Hatfield proud. We bailed on the seventh pitch from too much aiding and a band of shitty rock. Pitch 1: 5.6, 25 m Climb the ramp trending right to a Belay Station. Pitch 2: 5.11, 30 m Climb a face past three bolts to a crack that leads to a chimney with a belay ledge on top. Pitch 3: 5.11+ sustained, (crux) 30 m Traverse left for 12m from the belay past a bolt to gain a finger to hand crack. Climb the crack using jams and layaways to a belay station. Pitch 4: 5.11+ 20 m, continue up the crack and over a small lip to some ledges and a belay station above. Pitch 5: 5.11 30 m, Step right off the belay and climb discontinuous cracks to small roof and step left to a pin. From there continue up and left left to a bolt gaining a prominent crack system just below a belay ledge. Pitch 6: 5.11+ A1(5.12?) From the belay ledge continue up the crack system to a series of minor roofs. As gear becomes less desirable, a pin will get you through a crux to a belay station above (Note: Three bolts are above the station for any one trying to finish the line).

Descent Options:

rap - Be mindful to back clip while repelling to ensure stations are reachable. Rapping on double 60 m ropes from the third rap station will get you to a small ledge - lower off slung rock. Rap stations are bolts, hangers, tat, and biners (bring tat for r

Submitted by: a4a52041 on 2014-08-21
Views: 405
Route ID: 115361

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