(7 pitches plus approach pitches) Possibly the most spectacular multi-pitch in Squamish. Clean lines, perfect stone, and incredible position make for a wild experience.
There are 3 approaches to reach the base of the start of the Grand Wall route. One- Traverse out the Flake Escape Ledges as for Merci-Me(the easiest) Two- Take Apron Strings/Merci-Me approach(5 pitches) and Three- Climb Cruel Shoes(5.10d) from the base of the Chief to the base of the Split Pillar. This is the longest and most difficult approach(6 pitches).
p1. Split Pillar(5.10b) Layback or jam this incredible crack. p2. The Sword(5.11a) The crux is a thin layback above the belay. Move out left above the bolt to face cracks out left. Back into corner and up. p3. (A0) Climb the long bolt ladder. p4. Perry's Layback (5.11a) Climb up and layback the wide crack with bolts for pro. p5. (5.9) Move to right end of ledge. Traverse up and right to tree belay. *There is an alternate line that takes a direct, bolted path from the middle of the 5.9 traverse to the belay at the base of the final pitch. p6. (5.10a) Layback the short, tricky corner. p7. (5.10c) The "sting in the tail". Strenuous underclinging and laybacking.
*This route now goes completely free at 5.13c. At the belay after The Sword climb out right along The Underfling at 5.12c. Thin face moves make up the crux pitch as you climb back left to join the main route.
Submitted by: smellydude on 2005-10-31
Route ID: 12774
I had built this climb up to be much bigger than I should have. It is spicy, no doubt, through The Sword and it's exhausting, but it's not as scary as I had imagined.
I lead the Split Pillar clean (with run-out near the wide top), then followed my partner up The Sword (and the bolt ladder), then lead Perry's Layback (not clean; it sapped some strength), then followed the 5.9 traverse which was rather run-out, then lead The Sting In The Tail (also not clean, but it was really enjoyable).
After 25 years of climbing, I finally completed this incredible climb. Got to lead almost every pitch which was a real treat as well! Took a fall near the very end of Perry's Lieback and blew the no falls ascent, but I could care less! Some of the most wonderful climbing I have ever done!