(7 pitches plus approach pitches) Possibly the most spectacular multi-pitch in Squamish. Clean lines, perfect stone, and incredible position make for a wild experience.
There are 3 approaches to reach the base of the start of the Grand Wall route. One- Traverse out the Flake Escape Ledges as for Merci-Me(the easiest) Two- Take Apron Strings/Merci-Me approach(5 pitches) and Three- Climb Cruel Shoes(5.10d) from the base of the Chief to the base of the Split Pillar. This is the longest and most difficult approach(6 pitches).
p1. Split Pillar(5.10b) Layback or jam this incredible crack. p2. The Sword(5.11a) The crux is a thin layback above the belay. Move out left above the bolt to face cracks out left. Back into corner and up. p3. (A0) Climb the long bolt ladder. p4. Perry's Layback (5.11a) Climb up and layback the wide crack with bolts for pro. p5. (5.9) Move to right end of ledge. Traverse up and right to tree belay. *There is an alternate line that takes a direct, bolted path from the middle of the 5.9 traverse to the belay at the base of the final pitch. p6. (5.10a) Layback the short, tricky corner. p7. (5.10c) The "sting in the tail". Strenuous underclinging and laybacking.
*This route now goes completely free at 5.13c. At the belay after The Sword climb out right along The Underfling at 5.12c. Thin face moves make up the crux pitch as you climb back left to join the main route.
Submitted by: smellydude on 2005-10-31
Route ID: 12774