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North Face-West Crack - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (10)
Rock
Full rack, dubles up to #3 BD and a #4 and #5. Nuts and hexes also handy
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

Great adventure route with an awesome leap across a 140 foot chasm. Find corner system on north side at saddle. P1:(5.8+) Climb up corner (could be exciting) to a slot exiting out left. Belay off bolts. P2: Move belay up to nice tight-hands crack a couple ledges up. Climb the tight hands (5.9) up and right to get into oblique chimney. If you have long rope, you can just keep cruising until you get to the top (about 185 feet). Else split into two pitches.Watch out for the loose blocks at the the top of lower summit. P3: Famous jump across move, traverse left and climb a small roof crack (5.8) and then on up to the anchor right below the summit. A short 12 foot pitch to the top. It is best to stay roped up for this and then the last man down lead the crack. This may be the best 5.9 tower in Sedona.

Descent Options:

Newer rappel anchors located on the north side of the lower tower eliminate the need to rappel down into the bowels of the chimney.

Submitted by: joshklingbeil on 2007-01-04
Views: 367
Route ID: 44704

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10 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: crackrn on 2008-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars eh.

great views for sure.

Added: 2008-04-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: crackmd on 2008-04-24 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars well...

Cool summit, cool jump. Very mediocre climbing on questionable rock. Was this route an adventure? yes. Were there any memorable pitches aside from the jump? no. Could not beat the scenery though.

Added: 2008-04-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stardrivin on 2006-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

the rap was more scary and more sketchy than the actual climb. awesome gap jump

Added: 2006-07-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climbingbums on 2006-01-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

awesome route. loved the 2nd pitch, the squeeze chimney was amazing. the jump was much more fun than the maces, as well as less painful. but im just confused, is it 5.9, 10a, or 10b? i personally go with nine, but it seems like there is some discrepency.

Witnessed by: Jesse Robbins
Added: 2006-01-08

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flagstaff_climber on 2003-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Amazing route and a reallt cool summit with a mailbox at the top.

Added: 2003-11-20

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