Great adventure route with an awesome leap across a 140 foot chasm. Find corner system on north side at saddle. P1:(5.8+) Climb up corner (could be exciting) to a slot exiting out left. Belay off bolts. P2: Move belay up to nice tight-hands crack a couple ledges up. Climb the tight hands (5.9) up and right to get into oblique chimney. If you have long rope, you can just keep cruising until you get to the top (about 185 feet). Else split into two pitches.Watch out for the loose blocks at the the top of lower summit. P3: Famous jump across move, traverse left and climb a small roof crack (5.8) and then on up to the anchor right below the summit. A short 12 foot pitch to the top. It is best to stay roped up for this and then the last man down lead the crack. This may be the best 5.9 tower in Sedona.
Newer rappel anchors located on the north side of the lower tower eliminate the need to rappel down into the bowels of the chimney.
Submitted by: joshklingbeil on 2007-01-04
Route ID: 44704
I like its nickname better, from the west, really does look like rabbit ears. Radek's page on SP inspired me...did a video of my jump as well (he inserted a link to one)...will cherish the memory. Not bad really, but deserves a reputation...not a move any of us are use to doing, jumping over the abyss. Best advice, don't jump very hard...not as much energy needed as your heart thinks there is. The second pitch was really good. I thought the start of it was definitely in the 5.10 minus range as well...particulary off the deck like that. The rest is cruiser but fun. Make sure to ignore Bloom's directions in his new guidebook...we used his approach beta (circumvent the town to the east) thinking he knew something new about the neighborhood's stance on the climb...wrong....use Radek's approach at SP, much more direct approach for sure. Did Big Country Spire right after, that was the bushwhack from hell for a chossy climb. Not recommended. Bloom gives it two stars (out of three) in his new book, but got to wonder if he climbed it or just took the FAers word for it. It was not worth the cats claw or optional huge hike around up the wash to get to. Made for a long day doing both spires...they are not as close or easy to connect as you might think.
quite the elusive approach. I've done it twice now and haven't gotten close to 45-60 min window I've been told it should be. Approaching more from the west has much less cat claw though. It is well protected with this gear list, though the easy chossy parts are a bit sketchy. The climb is worth doing for the second pitch (at least through the chimney) and the jump.
have no idea what Sedona climbing is all about. The first pitch is classic Sedona powdery rock, bring the old number 5 to feel safe on the unsecure moves. Second pitch has a burly crack start (10b) to a cool chimney, again bring the 5. Third pitch is a handcrack in the right wall with stemming opportunities on the left. The fourth pitch will make you chit your pants. The new rap station is two bolts on the North side of the first spire you climbed, about 15 feet to the left of the chimney. Double rope rap this and then a quick single rap from the top of P1 gets you back to your packs. Rated 9 but feels as hard as the Mace (also 9...) but without all of the wide climbing.