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New Fascination - 5.10c

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock
standard rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5

Description:

Awesome, harder variation to One Hand Clapping. P1: climb Firecracker (.10b) or New Moon (.10d) to the upper section of the first pitch of One Hand Clapping. P2: go out the roof on the second pitch (.9) of One Hand Clapping. P3: instead of traversing left to Lizard Ledge, head up and slightly right to Fascination (.10c), a thin crack that takes ok gear. The crux on this route is the last move on the last pitch.

Submitted by: wyoclimber3 on 2006-04-01
Views: 557
Route ID: 75548

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2013-07-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fascinated with this one

The last pitch will definitely grab your attention. All bolted anchors were in mint condition as of 07/14/13. Middle way through the last pitch I clipped an old bolt and then did a right angled traverse to the thin crack which was very fun. After getting on this thin crack the pro was a little tricky, but small cams will do the trick. Hats off to whoever solo's this seldom climbed pitch.

Added: 2013-07-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: graniteboy on 1996-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars yes.

I don't agree with Wyoclimber: the crux is actually a thin stemming move with very small fingers about halfway up the last pitch. Done it many times, but only once without a rope. Be careful of crappy old anchor at base of last pitch.

Added: 2007-11-05