Routes : North America : United States : California : Lake Tahoe : Donner Summit : Black Wall : Touch And Go
PreviousTouch And Go - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock (Trad)
G
4
Standard Rack
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Description:
This route is often confused with Bourbon Street, as the Carville guide has terrible topos, and I believe the route description is wrong. P1: head up the first pitch of Cannibal Gully, traversing right across the face to chains on right wall (var.: climb Rat's Tooth, head left around corner to same chains). P2: climb nice hand crack in corner, belay at base of headwall. P3: head up the beautiful dihedral on the right side of the gully to Lizard Ledge (Carville guide says to follow horizontal crack to arete at halfway, which would be silly, because the dihedral above is fantastic). P4: choose an exit pitch off Lizard Ledge.
Submitted by: graniteboy on 2009-06-03
Last Modified: 2010-02-03
Views: 2220
Route ID: 8875
7 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 7 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Awesome climb
This is how I climbed it: P1 (flare on the right side of the Rat's Tooth. very strenuous with few rests. Take extra #2 or #3 Camelots to sew it up, or just move fast.) P2. Exit P1 traversing left and go up a nice hand crack up to a head wall. P3. Awesome finger section right of the start to a left corner and stayed there all the way to Lizard ledge. (a bit dirty but nice route).
Added: 2012-06-27
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
.
my partner led this climb with the fear and strength in his wimpers to show much he has improved in crack climbing! all fingertips. But, his comment below shows how much of a dork he still is.
Added: 2010-06-28
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
amazing
one of the more beautiful thin fingers i'd been on in a while. Solid rests and eats gear like a hungry hippo. Continue left up the corner because it's more fun that way.
Added: 2010-06-25
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Got a little lost on this one
The rat's tooth chimney proved to be a fine adversary. Could not figure out where the actual line was from there and ended up doing a series of variations and rappels looking for the right line.
Added: 2008-05-04
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
Solo ascent by:
First did it in highschool
done this one hundreds of times, numerous solos. FIrst did it on homemade nuts in the 70s. first pitch (rat's tooth) is the physical crux, 3rd pitch (lieback) is the technical crux.
Added: 2007-11-05
