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Touch And Go - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Rock (Trad)
G
4
Standard Rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.75/5

Description:

This route is often confused with Bourbon Street, as the Carville guide has terrible topos, and I believe the route description is wrong. P1: head up the first pitch of Cannibal Gully, traversing right across the face to chains on right wall (var.: climb Rat's Tooth, head left around corner to same chains). P2: climb nice hand crack in corner, belay at base of headwall. P3: head up the beautiful dihedral on the right side of the gully to Lizard Ledge (Carville guide says to follow horizontal crack to arete at halfway, which would be silly, because the dihedral above is fantastic). P4: choose an exit pitch off Lizard Ledge.

Submitted by: graniteboy on 2009-06-03
Last Modified: 2010-02-03
Views: 1517
Route ID: 8875

7 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2012-06-16 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome climb

This is how I climbed it: P1 (flare on the right side of the Rat's Tooth. very strenuous with few rests. Take extra #2 or #3 Camelots to sew it up, or just move fast.) P2. Exit P1 traversing left and go up a nice hand crack up to a head wall. P3. Awesome finger section right of the start to a left corner and stayed there all the way to Lizard ledge. (a bit dirty but nice route).

Added: 2012-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: laurenswarley on 2010-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

my partner led this climb with the fear and strength in his wimpers to show much he has improved in crack climbing! all fingertips. But, his comment below shows how much of a dork he still is.

Added: 2010-06-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cobbledik on 2010-06-24 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars amazing

one of the more beautiful thin fingers i'd been on in a while. Solid rests and eats gear like a hungry hippo. Continue left up the corner because it's more fun that way.

Added: 2010-06-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: tshimkus on 2008-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Got a little lost on this one

The rat's tooth chimney proved to be a fine adversary. Could not figure out where the actual line was from there and ended up doing a series of variations and rappels looking for the right line.

Added: 2008-05-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Solo Solo ascent by: graniteboy on 1978-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First did it in highschool

done this one hundreds of times, numerous solos. FIrst did it on homemade nuts in the 70s. first pitch (rat's tooth) is the physical crux, 3rd pitch (lieback) is the technical crux.

Added: 2007-11-05

... Read all 7 ascent notes