Scamper the 5.5 section up to wall, then veer left about half way and up toward the topout roof, then right and around the roof to exit.
Variation - instead of traversing left or right to exit the roof, head straight up through a very reachy crux to the anchors. 5.11a/b?
Submitted by: slamurai on 2006-11-06
Last Modified: 2007-03-19
Route ID: 55094
TR'ed this as the last route of the day. I set my anchors on the bolts to climbers right of the roof. First 1/3 is about 5.5-5.7 ish and chossy. Watch out for beach strollers in rock fall danger. Used the 1-2 finger pockets and edges to get 15' below the top (10a), then underclug the roof and exited to the right. Big, short pendulum at the roof. You're 6' below your anchors and 8' to the left. I fell there twice, probably because I was psyched out. Excellent climb.
We set the TR anchor to the right of the roof. My friends finished by going up to the left with the crack, under the roof, then to the right. I had a real hard time with that, so I did a swing over to the right and was able to reach the anchor that way. I think by swinging and combining the 10c with the 11 variation, I skipped all the hardest cruxes.