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Open Book - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 4.72/5 Average Rating : 4.72 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (59)
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Rock
3
to 4"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.95/5
  Rock Quality 4.94/5
  Scenery 4.56/5
  Fun Factor 4.74/5

Description:

South West Side. This is America's first 5.9, a nice dihedral with the first ascent by Royal Robbins in the sixties. Think about that as you plug in your mechanical hardware supported by your high tech climbing shoes accompanied by modern belay techniques. A true classic! I appologize for the tangent. A very worthwhile climb that will test your skills over a wide range. Sweet!

Submitted by: rrradam on 2001-11-16
Views: 2895
Route ID: 3490

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59 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: BenHorton on 2012-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beware the Start.

The "crux" is not the crux, the "bouldery start" is more like a solo. I think i went to far right on the start and had some seriously sketchy moves back to the crack. I think next time I'll just take the 10 C direct start. The flake was easy, and well protected, I think people are just scared of the move. The offwidth above could use a couple #4's, anybody who says otherwise is just trying to impress you with their runouts.
It's definitely a 5.9, but I wouldn't recommend this climb to 5.9 climbers. (Oh, and it was the worlds first 5.9, but that's only because the rest of the world didn't use the YDS) - I think I'm grumpy today, my notes are pissy.

Added: 2012-07-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: andrea37 on 2011-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars America's first 5.9

And it's terrific. Has a little bit of everything, starting out with a bouldery, steep sequence. P1 was my fav, especially navigating the flake. P2 is sustained and i switched off and on from shoulder scumming to laying it back.


Added: 2011-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2011-07-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars I don't think it is 5.9...

(start stupid grade argument here, just kidding!) Beautiful line with good moves. I gleaned gear beta from a couple different parties and the recommendations were all over the place. Ended up taking 2 #3's and 2 #4's, only ended up placing the #4 once as there always seemed to be other options. There is a good stretch of 3-4" crack (wide hands and shoulder scum or lieback) on pitch 2 so if you are not confident bring extras. I won't give away the beta for the 5.6R traverse but I will say it is not that bad, especially compared to other heady Tahquitz climbing.

Added: 2011-07-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: steple on 2011-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Beautiful!

Led pitch 1 to the ledge above the flake, followed pitch 2 to just below the slab, led last pitch with slab and 4th class.

Added: 2011-07-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: quiteatingmysteak on 2011-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars burly.

very burly.

Added: 2011-06-25

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