Open Book - 5.9 popular

The "crux" is not the crux, the "bouldery start" is more like a solo. I think i went to far right on the start and had some seriously sketchy moves back to the crack. I think next time I'll just take the 10 C direct start. The flake was easy, and well protected, I think people are just scared of the move. The offwidth above could use a couple #4's, anybody who says otherwise is just trying to impress you with their runouts.
It's definitely a 5.9, but I wouldn't recommend this climb to 5.9 climbers. (Oh, and it was the worlds first 5.9, but that's only because the rest of the world didn't use the YDS) - I think I'm grumpy today, my notes are pissy.

And it's terrific. Has a little bit of everything, starting out with a bouldery, steep sequence. P1 was my fav, especially navigating the flake. P2 is sustained and i switched off and on from shoulder scumming to laying it back.

(start stupid grade argument here, just kidding!) Beautiful line with good moves. I gleaned gear beta from a couple different parties and the recommendations were all over the place. Ended up taking 2 #3's and 2 #4's, only ended up placing the #4 once as there always seemed to be other options. There is a good stretch of 3-4" crack (wide hands and shoulder scum or lieback) on pitch 2 so if you are not confident bring extras. I won't give away the beta for the 5.6R traverse but I will say it is not that bad, especially compared to other heady Tahquitz climbing.

Led pitch 1 to the ledge above the flake, followed pitch 2 to just below the slab, led last pitch with slab and 4th class.

very burly.