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Gutenberger Wall Direct - 5.7 popular

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (12)
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Route follow about a 0.5-2 inch crack that will take just about anything. Belay/Rap stations are bol
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.83/5

Description:

Follows beautifull direct line (hence the name), end at top of dome. Great first trad lead.

Submitted by: jstumpf on 2001-11-07
Views: 1845
Route ID: 6831

12 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ShibbyShane on 2009-03-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gutenberger Wall Direct

My first multipitch trad lead. Pretty easy climb, pretty much all slab with a few handjams if you want and maybe some lieback. Good for figuring out how to manage the rope, etc etc as it isn't likely your second will fall. Also, the bolted belay stations make it easy as you don't have to worry about building anchors. All in all, pretty good!

Added: 2009-03-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: hi_climr_cali on 2008-05-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gutenberger Wall Direct

My 13 Year old son's second Multi-Pitch. Crack had a bit of dirt in it but not to bad. Great fun overall. Heading up to Half dome in two weeks to climb 5.7R Snake Dikes. Thought that Gutneberger would be great practice and it was!

Added: 2008-05-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Rockjunkie15 on 2007-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Easy

This is a beginner trad climb w/bolted belays.

Added: 2008-03-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: evanwish on 2008-03-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 5.9+ variation

I did the P1 5.9+ variation up the dark overhanging finger crack and then the rest of the crack..

the 5.9 variation is great though... its almost a waste to not do it.....

Added: 2008-03-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gbclimber on 2008-02-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gutenberger Direct

Led all three pitches. Great route. My second multipitch trad lead. Lots of fun, great exposure and view from top.

Added: 2008-02-19

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