Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Needles : The Warlock : South Face

South Face - 5.9

Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)

First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

to 6" if you are a wuss, otherwise you can make do with your partner's sparse rack and run it out fo

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.9
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

Another awesome Beckey route. This stays in the sun ALL DAY LONG so don't do it in the middle of summer. Probably best in the spring, days are too short in the fall. BEAUTIFUL, long, committing route with a long approach and an ugly start. Start early (like 6am early) or you'll likely have to back off from up high, which sucks. With a 70M you can run many pitches together, and I seem to recall that you can make it to the ground from either the Imaginary Voyage anchors (huge rings) or the Howling anchors (chains) in 165'. Don't quote me on that, though. Additonal comments: take a headlamp....and after completing the slabby finish to the false summit (stay on the left side of the ever widening crack on the way up the final pitches), you will see a few bolt ladder across a wide, chasm-y crack that gets you to the true summit. From there, walk across to The Howling anchors and rap. If its dark, with no headlamp you'd be foolish to try this. Very fine route.

Submitted by: bernard on 2005-05-18
Views: 363
Route ID: 27709

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