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South Face - 5.9

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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to 6" if you are a wuss, otherwise you can make do with your partner's sparse rack and run it out fo
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Another awesome Beckey route. This stays in the sun ALL DAY LONG so don't do it in the middle of summer. Probably best in the spring, days are too short in the fall. BEAUTIFUL, long, committing route with a long approach and an ugly start. Start early (like 6am early) or you'll likely have to back off from up high, which sucks. With a 70M you can run many pitches together, and I seem to recall that you can make it to the ground from either the Imaginary Voyage anchors (huge rings) or the Howling anchors (chains) in 165'. Don't quote me on that, though. Additonal comments: take a headlamp....and after completing the slabby finish to the false summit (stay on the left side of the ever widening crack on the way up the final pitches), you will see a few bolt ladder across a wide, chasm-y crack that gets you to the true summit. From there, walk across to The Howling anchors and rap. If its dark, with no headlamp you'd be foolish to try this. Very fine route.

Submitted by: bernard on 2005-05-18
Views: 1139
Route ID: 27709

9 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great

We headed up a gully to a chimney. This was 5.9 with a 5.9 hand crack above it. Belayed in trees. From here, a few face moves left to a very deep flair with ferns and dug outs for pro--5.8 Above, clear climbing to the thin crack and groove to the top. We rapped off the false summit, and then took anchors down with a single rope.

Added: 2012-07-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: raymondjeffrey on 2005-12-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

seconded the route and it was a good one

Witnessed by: gambler
Added: 2005-12-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boulderhopper on 2005-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-10-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: flyerd on 2005-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Nice route. Gnarly approach. Lovely area.

Witnessed by: Bruce M.
Added: 2005-06-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: poorboy on 2005-02-02 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-02-02

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