Routes : North America : United States : California : Western Sierra : Needles : The Warlock : South Face
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South Face - 5.9
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Rock
to 6" if you are a wuss, otherwise you can make do with your partner's sparse rack and run it out fo
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Description:
Another awesome Beckey route. This stays in the sun ALL DAY LONG so don't do it in the middle of summer. Probably best in the spring, days are too short in the fall. BEAUTIFUL, long, committing route with a long approach and an ugly start. Start early (like 6am early) or you'll likely have to back off from up high, which sucks. With a 70M you can run many pitches together, and I seem to recall that you can make it to the ground from either the Imaginary Voyage anchors (huge rings) or the Howling anchors (chains) in 165'. Don't quote me on that, though. Additonal comments: take a headlamp....and after completing the slabby finish to the false summit (stay on the left side of the ever widening crack on the way up the final pitches), you will see a few bolt ladder across a wide, chasm-y crack that gets you to the true summit. From there, walk across to The Howling anchors and rap. If its dark, with no headlamp you'd be foolish to try this. Very fine route.
Submitted by: bernard on 2005-05-18
Views: 1719
Route ID: 27709
9 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 9 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
great
We headed up a gully to a chimney. This was 5.9 with a 5.9 hand crack above it. Belayed in trees. From here, a few face moves left to a very deep flair with ferns and dug outs for pro--5.8 Above, clear climbing to the thin crack and groove to the top. We rapped off the false summit, and then took anchors down with a single rope.
Added: 2012-07-30
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
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| Scenery | |
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Second ascent by:
Ascent Note
seconded the route and it was a good one
Witnessed by: gambler
Added: 2005-12-06
Added: 2005-12-06
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2005-10-13
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Ascent Note
Nice route. Gnarly approach. Lovely area.
Witnessed by: Bruce M.
Added: 2005-06-14
Added: 2005-06-14
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Red Point ascent by:
Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2005-02-02
