Fairview Dome Regular Route - 5.9 popular

Amazing. No Doubt a Classic!

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This one is one to remember... climbed it with a 62.5m rope like this: -B1: belay from tree at 200ft. B2: Belay at the 7by10 ledge (follower simulclimbed to 3by10 ledge). B3:(short pitch) belay at Crescent ledge. B4:(short pitch) belay right at the base of left ramp. B5:(long pitch) belay right before the right traverse of P8. B6: Belay at the tree. Simulclimbed to the top (roped up for the 5.6 move after p11). Climbed leisurely in 7.5 hours. Perfect weather. Crux move did not feel hard b/c crack was dry on p1.

This was a great climb that started hard and only got easier. We got the first four pitches a little mixed up belaying at the wrong spots, but in all did it in four jumbled short and long pitches. The first pitch was wet in a small section which made it the crux of the whole route. The next three we amazing, fairly sustained, 5.8 crack climbing. I almost missed the crescent ledge and went up to the heady looking roof above it. Getting back down to the ledge was definitely exciting! Pitches 5 and 6 weren’t too hard, but still had some fun moves. On Pitch 7, I pulled to 5.9 roof move at the pin. With a 70m rope, rope drag got to be a little too bad to simul so we did it in 2 long runout pitches and then a last short scramble to the top. The descent was a little scary as we went right toward a cairn and then found ourselves on a steep section at the edge of a huge cliff. Needless to say we traversed left and found a much easier descent route.

30 minute hike, got to the base around 9am; there was a congo line, but luckily the party of 3 ahead of us decided to bail, so our wait wasn't too bad. A beautiful day, but clouds formed in the afternoon so we had to hustle off. Such a great climb, lots of fun. Crux is first pitch. I led P4 (5.8), traverse pitch, and P7-8. Walk off is weird--down the backside of the dome. Would have been super sketchy/impossible had it started raining.