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Deuces Wild - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (23)
Rock
Pitch 1. 5.10a with 7 Bolts/2 Bolt Anchor......Pitch 2. 5.9 with 10 Bolts/2 Bolt Anchor
135
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.25/5
  Rock Quality 4.12/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 3.88/5

Description:

Good cruise climb with a crux at the first bolt. This route can be done as one or two pitches. It is possible to make this a little harder by going on the right side of the last couple bolts giving you another crux of 10a with some great exposure.

Submitted by: skupdogg on 2001-11-11
Views: 213
Route ID: 3186

23 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 23 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2009-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Enjoyable 2 pitch

Although very enjoyable, I had the same thoughts as cracklover about the P1 anchor location - it was unnecessary to move far left of the crack system and another 2 meters higher has a standing ledge (I justified not using this since the rock sloped inward much more in this location so that the anchors would be far from the belayer's body).

Added: 2009-07-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: acherry on 2009-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Meh

getting to the p1 anchors is sketchy. A few sortof fun moves

Added: 2009-06-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cracklover on 2009-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars It's true...

... the positioning for the first anchors is totally stupid. It forces a hanging belay where there's a ledge 6 feet higher. And it cuts away from the natural line of weakness in the rock to force a single 5.10 sequence. Aside from that, not a bad climb.

Added: 2009-06-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: nosaj on 2009-05-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars ..

Sketchy move to the 1st anchors

Added: 2009-05-21

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: clohse on 2009-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Ick?

Another Titus-led gem... or not. Weird moves off the deck. Not particularly spectacular.

Added: 2009-04-14

... Read all 23 ascent notes