Average Rating : 3.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
Dave Johnson and Pete Robinson
A single set of cams through BD #3 and two sets of nuts.
A wonderful route to some, a giant pile of crap to others. Nevertheless, considered a classic for the area. Definitely stout for the grade and you will be crying if you aren't good at the wide stuff.
Located on the Book, left of the dihedral that splits the Pages from the wall on which Pear Buttress is and immediately left of George's Tree (the flaring splitter with tree halfway up), the first pitch constitutes ~130' of wide crack climbing and is easily identifiable by the squeeze chimney about 30' up. P1 (one of the harder 5.6's you will do) ends atop a pillar. Folks with 70 m ropes can continue upward, following one of the cracks to the left of the pillar, to a large ledge by a tree below a large right facing dihedral (5.8). This is the belay for the third pitch.
Those without longer ropes or those wishing to bypass these flaring cracks for some decidely easier climbing will belay atop the pillar. P2 will then follow a ramp that begins on the right side of the pillar, and end atop the ledge mentioned above (5.5).
P3 is what you came for. Follow the dihedral for ~120' before encountering a bulge split by two hand cracks (crux, 5.7). Pick one and continue onto the nice ledge above (~200' total). If you took the crack all the way to the ledge, you will have to move the belay over to the large leaning block (the Fang).
For P4, get on the Fang and take the wide crack directly above it for a short pitch of 5.7. End below the head-wall and belay near the tree.
P5 begins by taking the easy ground northwest around the head wall (5.2). Belay at the top of the Pages amongst the fins.
Walk off to the east and descend via the gulley to the east of the Book.
Submitted by: oldguy53 on 2008-07-10
Route ID: 91228
Spot on route description in RC.com. 1st pitch is a wrestling match to stay on the lips of the chimney, yet still find pro. We used offset cams and a #4 Camelot several times on the route. 3rd pitch is probably the most fun and 60 meters long, although standing on top of the fang in a high wind is stimulating. Decent takes some time - it's over and right. Very few cairns to mark it.