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Routes : North America : United States : Illinois : South : Drapers Bluff : South Face

South Face

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About South Face:

This is the main part of the accessible climbing at Draper's Bluff. The south facing orientation makes it great for the cooler months, and kinda tough for the hottest days of summer. This is privately owned, and much of it has been developed by an owner/climber; respect his restrictions, as posted at the parking lot and on signs near the cliff. The route variety is impressive: trad, sport and mixed-pro; single and multi-pitch. The path from the parking lot, along a wire fence (DO NOT GO EAST -RIGHT- OF THE FENCE!), will take you to the eastern (right) end of the climbable part of the south face. All routes are good quality; some, where noted, are especially recommended. There are many, many more routes in the guidebook, not included here. I will not presume to have the experience and knowledge of the author of the guidebook. Routes are listed east to west (right to left).

Approach:
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Sandstone
Type of Climbing: Sport/Trad
Sun Aspect:

Routes

SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Buster Brown 5.10a 3
0 Average Rating = 3.70/5 Feeling Around 5.9 12
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Genuine Risk 5.11b 1
0 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Kittens 5.12b 1
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Leap of Faith 5.11a 6
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Outer Space 5.9 2
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Samantha 5.13a 0
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Trial amd Error 5.11b 1
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Underway 5.6 3
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 High Over Camp 5.10a 12
8 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Black Widow 5.8 4
9 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Chimney 5.5 5
10 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Burning Puppies 5.10b 3
13 Average Rating = 2.00/5 Back to School 5.10b 3
13 Average Rating = 4.50/5 Dental Bill 5.6 2
14 Average Rating = 4.83/5 Fancy Lads (5) 5.10c 13
15 Average Rating = 3.75/5 Innerspace (1) 5.10a 11
16 Average Rating = 4.25/5 Monarch 5.10c 7
17 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Bookshelf Blue 5.9 2
20 Average Rating = 4.75/5 Blue Roof 5.10a 4
20 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Sunday Picnic 5.7 5
22 Average Rating = 4.06/5 Sidewinder (3) 5.6 30
23 Average Rating = 3.83/5 Patriot 5.8 16
24 Average Rating = 3.20/5 Leprechaun 5.8 11
25 Average Rating = 3.36/5 Cactus Route (1) 5.6 15
31 Average Rating = 4.14/5 Dust Doctors (3) 5.8 21
33 Average Rating = 4.50/5 The Outline (First Pitch) 5.11d 4
34 Average Rating = 5.00/5 The Outline (2nd pitch) 5.12a 3
37 Average Rating = 4.67/5 Southern Exposure 5.10a 8
38 Average Rating = 3.42/5 Surprize (5) 5.9 34
41 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Almond Joy 5.7 6
42 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Baby Ruth (1) 5.5 7
43 Average Rating = 3.20/5 Butterfinger Pitch 1 5.7 11
44 Average Rating = 3.50/5 Mounds (1) 5.7 7
45 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Charleston Chew 5.7 0
46 Average Rating = 0.00/5 access gulley 0
47 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Butterfinger Pitch 2 5.6 7
49 Average Rating = 3.56/5 Mike's Climb 5.8 22
54 Average Rating = 3.55/5 Puppet Master (3) 5.9 23
58 Average Rating = 3.92/5 Geppetto (2) 5.10a 22
63 Average Rating = 3.83/5 Pecker Wrecker (1) 5.10b 9
68 Average Rating = 0.00/5 D & D 5.10d 1
74 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Bad Day 5.8 12
78 Average Rating = 3.88/5 Good Day 5.6 15
83 Average Rating = 3.67/5 Shame 5.10c 7
87 Average Rating = 3.33/5 Mickey Mouse 5.4 5
90 Average Rating = 2.00/5 unknown trad route 5.8 3
94 Average Rating = 0.00/5 The Lady or the Tiger 5.10c 0
97 Average Rating = 4.57/5 Ant Killer (2) 5.9 27
100 Average Rating = 4.25/5 "C" 5.8 24
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Sidewinder
 		Pecker Wrecker
 		Surprize
 		Puppet Master
 		Geppetto