Skip to Content

Gnatty Pale - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Scott Gilliam
Rock (Trad)
Small cams (incl. 2-3 .5" pieces), nuts, and micronuts, as well as long slings (incl. two 4') and 3 Camalot.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.50/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5


Start between Hodad and Double Ought, near a low, pointed horn, aiming for the pale streak over roof above. Climb to and sling horn. Climb to a bolt (added by another party after the FA) past a balancy 5.8ish bit. Better holds, but no gear (R) lead to a nice stance. Above this stance, equalize a couple micronuts to protect another balancy move up to the roof. Under the roof, sling some good gear out right with a 4ft sling. Step left and negotiate roof -- good gear is just over the lip -- and then enjoy good (but well-spaced gear) and good holds to top. Aim for an obvious crack in final overlap and sling the big block to belay.

Descent Options:

Walk left and rap into the Garden and descend the gully. Or walk right and rap Whipping Post with two ropes.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-11-13
Last Modified: 2012-03-26
Views: 718
Route ID: 94060

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating X
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: csproul on 2009-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun new route at Moore's

Followed Scott on this. May try leading this sometime, but it is a must not fall route. Definitely needs some traffic to clean it up.

Added: 2009-06-07

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: erica on 2008-05-31 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars a lil bit of everything...

How fun to be one of the first on this line! Crimpy but straightforward face in runout section, daunting looking traverse at the roof (but then loads of fun once you pop up to see the giant holds!), a few funky and reachy moves once your back on the face, and a fun little crack at the top. Really fun route - great job Scott! :)

Added: 2008-06-04

  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Me and my LRB

Did the FA with my Soloist (AKA little-red-buddy). Gets w/in clipping range of the Hodad anchor under the roof, but otherwise stands alone. Good route with quite a penalty if you fall off the lower face. 5.9 R/X, I reckon. Be careful.

Added: 2008-06-04