Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Moores Wall : Hanging Garden : Gnatty Pale
PreviousGnatty Pale - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Scott Gilliam
Rock (Trad)
R
1
Small cams (incl. 2-3 .5" pieces), nuts, and micronuts, as well as long slings (incl. two 4') and 3 Camalot.
120
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Description:
Start between Hodad and Double Ought, near a low, pointed horn, aiming for the pale streak over roof above. Climb to and sling horn. Climb to a bolt (added by another party after the FA) past a balancy 5.8ish bit. Better holds, but no gear (R) lead to a nice stance. Above this stance, equalize a couple micronuts to protect another balancy move up to the roof. Under the roof, sling some good gear out right with a 4ft sling. Step left and negotiate roof -- good gear is just over the lip -- and then enjoy good (but well-spaced gear) and good holds to top. Aim for an obvious crack in final overlap and sling the big block to belay.Descent Options:
Walk left and rap into the Garden and descend the gully. Or walk right and rap Whipping Post with two ropes.
Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-11-13
Last Modified: 2012-03-26
Views: 923
Route ID: 94060
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | X |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Second ascent by:
fun new route at Moore's
Followed Scott on this. May try leading this sometime, but it is a must not fall route. Definitely needs some traffic to clean it up.
Added: 2009-06-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
a lil bit of everything...
How fun to be one of the first on this line! Crimpy but straightforward face in runout section, daunting looking traverse at the roof (but then loads of fun once you pop up to see the giant holds!), a few funky and reachy moves once your back on the face, and a fun little crack at the top. Really fun route - great job Scott! :)
Added: 2008-06-04
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Onsight ascent by:
Me and my LRB
Did the FA with my Soloist (AKA little-red-buddy). Gets w/in clipping range of the Hodad anchor under the roof, but otherwise stands alone. Good route with quite a penalty if you fall off the lower face. 5.9 R/X, I reckon. Be careful.
Added: 2008-06-04
