Routes : North America : United States : North Carolina : Central : Moores Wall : Hanging Garden : Hodadical Master
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Hodadical Master - 5.11a
Average Rating : 3.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
4 Bolt to Shuts, one bolt at roof above shuts for optional 5.11 finish, then trad gear beyond roof bolt
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Description:
ledge at start of gully to hanging garden...thin face/slab moves with bolts spaced out to challege you...every move bout same...roof goes but harder....all gear above Now has new protection bolts and new anchor bolts with rap rings at the top of the 1st pitch
Submitted by: ottoman on 2005-12-15
Last Modified: 2013-06-11
Views: 1021
Route ID: 45585
6 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 6 ascent notes
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Red Point ascent by:
interesting
Consistent thin climbing and engaging. Lead P1 after a TR last visit. Quite far between bolts, I thought I'd be able to get a micro stopper midway between bolt 1 and 2 but I wasn't able to slide the cable through the opening at the bottom. As such, there was quite a runout between bolts 1-2 and 2-3 which would yield quite a long scary fall when near clipping in both instances. Still, the holds are big enough to enable careful consideration before committing to a potential large fall. Hadn't wanted to try this before on the old bolts, but the new ones are nice and shiny and the rap rings make for a vast improvement over the rat's nest that used to live on the anchor hangers.
Added: 2013-08-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
Top Rope ascent by:
now
has new protection bolts on the 1st pitch and new anchor bolts with rap rings at the top of the 1st pitch.
Added: 2013-06-10
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
Balancy, Thin, Slabby
Good route, very balancy, thin, crimpy, and slabby. Not hard. Optional roof finish puts it at 5.11-, once you pass bolt on roof it's all trad gear from there!
Added: 2009-10-25
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | PG13 |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Fun, funky, crimpy climbing
The easiest line was not the original. The most aesthetic line goes left of 2nd bolt then straight up to 3rd. To the right or further left are better holds, easier climbing. Sling a gully tree for a first piece. There's an okay microstopper just down and right of 2nd bolt and a shallow nut between next two bolts. The 3/8" button heads are pretty brown.
Added: 2008-05-20
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10a |
| Safety Rating | G |
pretty cool
roof is very fun, anyone know what it goes at?
Added: 2007-04-15
