Skip to Content

Hodadical Master - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.60/5 Average Rating : 3.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
4 Bolt to Shuts, one bolt at roof above shuts for optional 5.11 finish, then trad gear beyond roof bolt
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

ledge at start of gully to hanging garden...thin face/slab moves with bolts spaced out to challege you...every move bout same...roof goes but harder....all gear above Now has new protection bolts and new anchor bolts with rap rings at the top of the 1st pitch

Submitted by: ottoman on 2005-12-15
Last Modified: 2013-06-11
Views: 646
Route ID: 45585

6 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 6 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
Red Point Red Point ascent by: mjwestla on 2013-08-04 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars interesting

Consistent thin climbing and engaging. Lead P1 after a TR last visit. Quite far between bolts, I thought I'd be able to get a micro stopper midway between bolt 1 and 2 but I wasn't able to slide the cable through the opening at the bottom. As such, there was quite a runout between bolts 1-2 and 2-3 which would yield quite a long scary fall when near clipping in both instances. Still, the holds are big enough to enable careful consideration before committing to a potential large fall. Hadn't wanted to try this before on the old bolts, but the new ones are nice and shiny and the rap rings make for a vast improvement over the rat's nest that used to live on the anchor hangers.

Added: 2013-08-05

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: csproul on 2013-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars now

has new protection bolts on the 1st pitch and new anchor bolts with rap rings at the top of the 1st pitch.

Added: 2013-06-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kyleht287 on 2009-10-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Balancy, Thin, Slabby

Good route, very balancy, thin, crimpy, and slabby. Not hard. Optional roof finish puts it at 5.11-, once you pass bolt on roof it's all trad gear from there!

Added: 2009-10-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2008-05-19 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun, funky, crimpy climbing

The easiest line was not the original. The most aesthetic line goes left of 2nd bolt then straight up to 3rd. To the right or further left are better holds, easier climbing. Sling a gully tree for a first piece. There's an okay microstopper just down and right of 2nd bolt and a shallow nut between next two bolts. The 3/8" button heads are pretty brown.

Added: 2008-05-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sammmy on 2007-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars pretty cool

roof is very fun, anyone know what it goes at?

Added: 2007-04-15

... Read all 6 ascent notes