First Pitch: Climb up a buttress with three bolts and two horizontal cracks (first being the Cornsnake Crack) before the tree ledge with two anchor bolts.
Second Pitch: Starts out to the left of the tree above the anchors. There is about twenty feet of face climbing with one bolt protecting it. Then an awesome vertical crack with many possible placements. The cruz is a "blocky" move where the crack dissipates.Keep to the right of the small growth and there will be two anchor bolts. To rappel two sixty meter ropes are needed.
Submitted by: jsaunders on 2011-07-10
Route ID: 109315
We started at about 11:00 on Saturday night. I lead both pitches. It was quite easy to climb with just a headlight and quite enjoyable. I would have to say this is closer to a 5.6 than a 5.7. Just make sure to bring gear for the second pitch.
This was our first route of the weekend and the easiest. I don't know enough about the route to know how many pitches it has. It looked like it was only two pitches. If you continued after the second pitch, you would end up connecting to Hidden Crack. I only bothered with the two pitches and lead both. I actually lead the second pitch twice.
If you walk left from Jim Dandy and walk past the Peek-A-Boo gulley, while staying at the base of the rock, you will find the start for this route. The start is lower angle and has three bolts that can be seen from the ground. Climb past the bolts to a tree ledge and double bolt belay that is located just to the left of a tree.
For the second pitch, climb up above the rings to a bolt (do not use the tree for a hold). Move left from the bolt to a nice crack that angles up to the right. It will take all the gear you can throw at it. At the end of the crack is a small roof. Climb through the roof, not around it. Continue up and to the right to the belay. I climbed the last 15' from the left side of the belay the first time and from the right on the second ascent, with both ways being of equal difficulty.
This was a very fun route and was quite easier than Hidden Crack even though it is rated the same. You do not need two 60M ropes to rappel, unless you want to hit the ground in one rappel. We used a single 60M and made two rappels to the ground without any difficulties.
Meant to onsight Hidden Crack today.. Ended up on this by mistake. On P2 be careful not to be sucked in on the moves up to the right. I kept going really far into a 9/10ish roof section that may have been wooly aphid.. Did the two pitches and kept going. Found a 3rd to a tree ledge, then a 4th following straight above through a crack with an exciting finish after being fairly runout for a bit. Finally a 5th pitch took us to the lightening ledge..