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Slippin into Darkness - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (20)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.92/5
  Scenery 3.23/5
  Fun Factor 4.23/5

Description:

This is a right facing dihedral on the far right side of the helmet buttress and just left of Whats up Doc? It begins as a wide, easy layback and ends on a thinner 5.9 crux. 75'

Submitted by: ncclimber on 2004-09-08
Views: 1025
Route ID: 53177

20 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: johnnyb336 on 2013-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice Crack Climb

I finally got around to leading this and was pleasantly surprised with the climb. The first half is quite easy and I didn't bother much with gear until closer to the ledge. For some unknown reason, I slung the tree on the ledge. This ended up causing drag later on. There was no reason to do so as there was plenty of opportunity for pro in the crack.

The upper portion of the climb was a little more interesting. The crack does get thinner but there were plenty of big holds all the way to the top. Some of the holds would probably be reachy for a shorter person. I had no problem finding gear placements. The last move from the crack to the top of the belay ledge was a little awkward but not all that difficult. This ended up being my climbing partner's favorite climb of the weekend.

Added: 2013-06-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jsaunders on 2011-09-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Classic

Finished this time at regular obvious exit. Felt 9 this time. Think finishing the whole crack is 10a

Added: 2011-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: jsaunders on 2011-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Harder when wet!

Was told that finishing completely to the top of the crack was more of a 10a version than the typical escape lower onto the face which is 5.9. I stuck it out even with the wet moves off the ledge which seemed harder than the crux.

Added: 2011-04-25

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: jsaunders on 2010-11-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Great first 5.9 lead

Really did enjoy this climb though I found the crux to be before I expected it. It was actually about 10 feet below where the last jug pull over to the ledge was. There was a great #2 C4 placement in the crux, though I should have placed a piece higher and used that hold for a left hand. Fun puzzle to complete.

Added: 2010-11-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2009-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great Corner

First corner was fun, but the second was a rush! The opening moves off the ledge were super edgy. The entire corner protected very well. The crux was fairly short, but pumpy placing gear. Must do!

Added: 2009-06-08

... Read all 20 ascent notes