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Smeagol - 5.9
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
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Kirk Holladay, Alvino Pon
Rock (Sport)
R
1
3 bolts. Runout to bolt 3 on hard moves.
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Description:
5.9+. Several folks recommend moving bolt 3 down and adding a 4th bolt.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Views: 228
Route ID: 111076
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.9 |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Top Rope ascent by:
great route. runout can be managed.
Back in the day (only a year ago), the magic clip hold was never chalked, and so this runout to bolt 3 was very risky. Beta spoiler for doing it safely. As you approach bolt 3, if you are fairly tall, right-hand is low on a sidepull or undercling jug, left hand clip sbolt 3 high. If you are shorter, move up and use the (chalked-up) pocket left of the bolt.
As long as you see that pocket, this runout seems well-designed, making scary fun out of an otherwise boring part. Above the runout is a great jug line. I'm not as supportive of a retro, but it might be a good idea to keep new leaders safe.
As long as you see that pocket, this runout seems well-designed, making scary fun out of an otherwise boring part. Above the runout is a great jug line. I'm not as supportive of a retro, but it might be a good idea to keep new leaders safe.
Added: 2012-04-17
