Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Middle Earth Wall : Smeagol
Smeagol - 5.9
Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Kirk Holladay, Alvino Pon
Rock (Sport)
R
1
3 bolts. Runout to bolt 3 on hard moves.
|
|
Description:
5.9+. Several folks recommend moving bolt 3 down and adding a 4th bolt.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Views: 773
Route ID: 111076
3 Ascents Recorded
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | G |
Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-04-14
(View Climbing Log)
seemed fine
focus on climbing not on fear... but it likely could be improved for leaders at this grade
Added: 2013-10-27
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | R |
Onsight ascent by: ematter on 2013-07-04
(View Climbing Log)
Smeagol
Another runout warm up.
Added: 2013-07-08
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | |
Rock Quality | |
Scenery | |
Fun Factor |
Top Rope ascent by: Hogge on 2012-04-14
(View Climbing Log)
great route. runout can be managed.
Back in the day (only a year ago), the magic clip hold was never chalked, and so this runout to bolt 3 was very risky. Beta spoiler for doing it safely. As you approach bolt 3, if you are fairly tall, right-hand is low on a sidepull or undercling jug, left hand clip sbolt 3 high. If you are shorter, move up and use the (chalked-up) pocket left of the bolt.
As long as you see that pocket, this runout seems well-designed, making scary fun out of an otherwise boring part. Above the runout is a great jug line. I'm not as supportive of a retro, but it might be a good idea to keep new leaders safe.
As long as you see that pocket, this runout seems well-designed, making scary fun out of an otherwise boring part. Above the runout is a great jug line. I'm not as supportive of a retro, but it might be a good idea to keep new leaders safe.
Added: 2012-04-17