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Smeagol - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 20
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Kirk Holladay, Alvino Pon
Rock (Sport)
R
1
3 bolts. Runout to bolt 3 on hard moves.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

5.9+. Several folks recommend moving bolt 3 down and adding a 4th bolt.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-12
Views: 395
Route ID: 111076

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kvochatzer on 2012-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars seemed fine

focus on climbing not on fear... but it likely could be improved for leaders at this grade

Added: 2013-10-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating R
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ematter on 2013-07-04 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Smeagol

Another runout warm up.

Added: 2013-07-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: Hogge on 2012-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great route. runout can be managed.

Back in the day (only a year ago), the magic clip hold was never chalked, and so this runout to bolt 3 was very risky. Beta spoiler for doing it safely. As you approach bolt 3, if you are fairly tall, right-hand is low on a sidepull or undercling jug, left hand clip sbolt 3 high. If you are shorter, move up and use the (chalked-up) pocket left of the bolt.

As long as you see that pocket, this runout seems well-designed, making scary fun out of an otherwise boring part. Above the runout is a great jug line. I'm not as supportive of a retro, but it might be a good idea to keep new leaders safe.

Added: 2012-04-17