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Torpedoes Away - 5.9 popular

Average Rating = 3.94/5 Average Rating : 3.94 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (17)
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Karl Vochatzer
Rock (Sport)
G
1
4 bolts plus anchors
35
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.09/5
  Rock Quality 4.17/5
  Scenery 3.45/5
  Fun Factor 4.38/5

Description:

Sixth lead route (L to R). This climb is immediately to the right of Hoover Head and Hoovering (TR). It was part of an historical TR line that faded away with time, called Torpedo (FA: Tom Suhler and Bruce Becker), that had started a little farther to the right past the obvious hole in the rock 5 feet off the deck. Fun start off the deck, thin moves from 1st to 2nd bolt to easy climbing up to the last bolt. Help build consensus on the rating please. Some say 5.9, 5.9+ up to 5.10a. It's a bit height-dependent; harder for shorter climbers. Practice the top out moves by moving off the right-side clipping hold for the anchors. There's a crimp under the cactus above, then stand on the previous clipping hold. It's fun, but the top out is not advised with the vegetation above.

Descent Options:

You can TR off of the anchors to climb the historical Torpedo (5.11) line if you start off the deck at Angel of Poets to the right and then traverse under the ominous rock bulge and then up diagonally to the second bolt on Torpedoes Away.

Submitted by: kvochatzer on 2009-01-02
Last Modified: 2014-02-14
Views: 3542
Route ID: 92280

Most Recent Photos (See all 6 photos)

17 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 17 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Brianleepainter on 2012-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun Route

Hand/foot match on the "torpedo hole" hueco. I noticed someone sketched a chalk mark on the lip, indicating the sweet spot to slap.

Added: 2012-06-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: annette on 2010-12-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice climbing

Fun moves all the way up

Added: 2012-01-17

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: lyndee on 2011-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars warm up.

this is another good warm up. i love the climbs on this side of the wall. like hoover head it starts out crimpy and ends jugy.

Added: 2011-03-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: chrisjmckinley on 2011-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun warm up

Love the two finger undercling intermediate to the clipping hold for the first bolt.

Added: 2011-03-25

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: sweetjane79 on 2010-01-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Red Point

The bottom is crimpy and has a couple of balancy moves. In the second sequence I pretty much match foot to hand before reaching up for the ledge. This is the most difficult move in the route.

Added: 2010-01-17

... Read all 17 ascent notes