Revenge of the Shoggoths - 5.11c

The "Blaine beta" was a painful kneebar to slowly move up, optional lefthand undercling, then snatch the best part of the sprag (a little crimp dish). Yesterday I kept hands low, got left foot high on the big point, leaned right, swung in a left-and-up arc (powerd by the left foot) to make the snatch pretty much blind. All about precision but the power requirements weren't much, no big power dyno such as Ralph's Route. Comparable to Ferntasm Twice Removed (11b) but harder to stick, harder to hold onto and move up on.

A 5'8" guy did not have the body length to do this style of deadpoint, and so the route grade is (IMO) highly height-dependent.

i cannot contort myself into any sort of 5.11d move on the crux. Since I did not do the crux move, I'll have to guess on what it feels like. However, since I couldn't work it out, I'm thinking 5.12b minimum for anyone without the long monkey-arm reach of Blaine and more the size of me or Phil that has to do some crazy 5.12 maneuver to move through the crux.

Thrilling! A year ago, Phil Bryan sent it onsight and suggested 5.12c/d. David Cardosa also sent. Not much traffic followed that ascent, then today Blaine employed "magic beta" which eased the crux. Blaine thinks it's an 11+. I originally thought 11c and easier than Hastur's, and repeated the route, but later after alot of Hasturs ascents and failures at repeating Revenge, I think 11d or harder.