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Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : North Shore : Dreamer's Wall : L'arete Des Jumeaux (The Arete Twins)

L'arete Des Jumeaux (The Arete Twins) - 5.11c

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 6
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Karl Vochatzer, Annette Pelletier
Rock (Sport)
G
1
3 bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

climbs the dihedral between the two aretes, and/or the left arete. You decide. You're the decider.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-15
Views: 219
Route ID: 111098

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ematter on 2013-09-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The Arete Twins

This was fun! I immediately went for the dihedral and even when I was trying to work the arete later I had a hard time staying away. Both routes are a little tricky and hard to stay balanced and on your feet. I guess a really good jug on the right side had broken off.

I onsighted the arete but had to actually work a few of the moves on the arete. One could be harder or it could be personal preference/style. I'm really bad at grading, thinking 11b/c. In terms of grading, could maybe see the arete kind of comparing to electric hellfire - short and sweet, moderately powerful, smaller holds though but not as many moves.

Added: 2013-09-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: kvochatzer on 2008-12-08 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars bolted with the future mother of my daughter and my wife :)

We originally had this so dialed that we thought it would be 5.10d out on the left arete up tiny little finger tip features. A few people falling on that traverse out left of this jack-hammered the holds we used trying to get back on route from their fall made this a little more fingery and harder. I also thought that pulling the right side right up the finger seam and to a small block would be 5.12a, but I managed it with less effort than those early days on it back in 2008.
Several people have tried to send this line only to be shut down by the tiny features. 5.11c is my best guess and compromise for whichever direction you choose to send it.

Added: 2012-05-01