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Open Spaces - 5.11b
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts, ending on The Arete Twin's anchors. It's recommended that you stick clip all 5 bolts.
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Description:
traverses the right face of the big open book dihedral and around the arete.
Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-15
Last Modified: 2014-06-08
Views: 463
Route ID: 111096
2 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Onsight ascent by:
*
Not really a big fan of traverses but this made for a good, pumpy warm-up. Actually probably too pumpy for a warmup, I had to work too hard for this.
Added: 2012-08-19
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
dorky looking traverse makes good
Unless you are one of us who love the look of permadraws, this traverse will look out-of-place. It crosses a sort of blank-looking wall up there on the ledge. Closer inspection will show it traverses a nice set of natural holds on an otherwise crimpy thin wall.
Up-route potential was limited (to Water Quality and maybe an unbolted line righ tof it), with the left roof really suspect. That's what motivated the line.
The climbing is (BETA SPOILER) tricky, with foot work dancing a bit, up and down and up, and some wild sucker and must-use sucky holds towards the arete. The arete is a freaky swing fall, probably all mental. My move to the anchor clip was super fun, using a high-foot right dropknee on the dihedral right face to survive the pump.
Up-route potential was limited (to Water Quality and maybe an unbolted line righ tof it), with the left roof really suspect. That's what motivated the line.
The climbing is (BETA SPOILER) tricky, with foot work dancing a bit, up and down and up, and some wild sucker and must-use sucky holds towards the arete. The arete is a freaky swing fall, probably all mental. My move to the anchor clip was super fun, using a high-foot right dropknee on the dihedral right face to survive the pump.
Added: 2012-04-15
