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Open Spaces - 5.11b

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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John Hogge
Rock (Sport)
G
1
5 bolts, ending on The Arete Twin's anchors. It's recommended that you stick clip all 5 bolts.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

traverses the right face of the big open book dihedral and around the arete.

Submitted by: Hogge on 2012-04-15
Last Modified: 2014-06-08
Views: 202
Route ID: 111096

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jb2100 on 2012-08-18 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars *

Not really a big fan of traverses but this made for a good, pumpy warm-up. Actually probably too pumpy for a warmup, I had to work too hard for this.

Added: 2012-08-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: Hogge on 2009-01-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars dorky looking traverse makes good

Unless you are one of us who love the look of permadraws, this traverse will look out-of-place. It crosses a sort of blank-looking wall up there on the ledge. Closer inspection will show it traverses a nice set of natural holds on an otherwise crimpy thin wall.

Up-route potential was limited (to Water Quality and maybe an unbolted line righ tof it), with the left roof really suspect. That's what motivated the line.

The climbing is (BETA SPOILER) tricky, with foot work dancing a bit, up and down and up, and some wild sucker and must-use sucky holds towards the arete. The arete is a freaky swing fall, probably all mental. My move to the anchor clip was super fun, using a high-foot right dropknee on the dihedral right face to survive the pump.

Added: 2012-04-15