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No Recess - 5.12c

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 13
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock
bolts to anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.00/5

Description:

route climbs through a climbing vine close to a tree

Submitted by: bmoscon on 2004-03-09
Views: 479
Route ID: 49814

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: nosferatu87 on 2014-02-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2014-02-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ematter on 2014-01-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars No Recess

Someone asked me if this route felt like no recess. I'm not really sure what no recess feels like... Anyway, the route is pretty powerful. It seems many peoples struggle around the 3rd clip (bolt right over the edge of the roof). Mainly it is figuring out what you want to do with the tufa, how to make the clip, and how to get to the big sidepull out right (I drop the right knee hard and use 2 tufas under the roof to bump out to the sidepull, others just throw hard with feet centered and left). For some, it can be cruxy to get to the next (4th clip) from there but the climbing eases somewhat. Get to a good ledge and you hit this thin section that kicks back positively - not overhung. It's kind of weird, maybe a bit awkward, and then you get to some good holds at the chains. I think almost everyone I've seen does the bottom tufa section differently. I'm pretty sure it's height dependent. Pretty good route, overshadowed by Learning to Crawl at the same grade. I'm not sure one is much harder than the other. NR might be more powerful but it's shorter with really only one low crux rather than the high and low crux of LTC.

Watch the tree behind you when you fall. So far I haven't seen any encounters.

Added: 2014-01-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jb2100 on 2013-03-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Tough

Harder than Learning to Crawl. Third bolt is a pain in the ass to clip.

Added: 2013-03-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: eljefe on 2003-10-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

sharp, one move wonder

Added: 2003-10-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: merock on 2002-03-20 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2002-03-20

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