5.10 C2. Killer route (except for the first 3 pitches). Skip the traverse on pitch 3 and go straight up. There is a 5.7 corner/ chimney system 20 ft. to the right of the pitch 2's anchors that is more direct and easier to find than the sandy bushwacking traverse. Pitches 6 and 7 go free at 5.10.
Submitted by: bsmoot on 2003-02-11
Route ID: 459
I wish I would have taken a liter of water per pitch. Temps were in the 90s and I was the only one on any walls. I set up the ledge at the hanging belay on P4. I didn't like how close the crack resembled Touchstone. Instead of thinking "What piece of gear would work best..?" I found myself saying "Wow, that scar was made by a #1 cam, and above it is a scar made by a brown camp tricam, and then a #5 nut above it,.. and...." Not too much creativity. It became more of a guessing match to see what the previous 500 climbers used at that spot. That said, many placements weren't good any more. Too eroded. Take a lot of nuts the more off sets the better.
Climbed up to somewhere below the high ledge and did a hammock bivi on day one. Then, for no apparent reason other than a total psych-out (and no, nothing bad had happened, just somehow mysteriously "not into it") we climbed one more pitch in the morning and then rapped the route without topping out. I think we may have heard horror stories about the descent from the summit or something. But as John Long has written, you don't really need much of an excuse to quit on a wall--even an easy one like this. A great route, though, and I regret not finishing it--yet, anyway.